Xll ITINERARY. 



well known ; but it takes time. Frequent accidents, often with heavy 

 loss of life, were met with in the falls generally, mostly through in- 

 experience, until legislation provided that both ciiptains and bowmen 

 were to be licensed for the different rivers — and even among these are 

 the venturesome ones who take unnecessary risks, resulting at times in 

 disaster. 



As it will be unnecessary to give later any description of the return 

 through these falls, I might tell here of an exciting incident which will 

 illustrate another aspect of the dangers in these waters. We were 

 running the Itakki Falls, down a long cataract of very rough and 

 heavy water, curving around from left to right, when the large paddle 

 of the bowman of the second boat caught on a rock below the water ; 

 and from the half-standing stooping posture in which a bowman places 

 himself when running the falls, with his legs braced against the sides, 

 he was pitched up and forward completely out of the boat. By the 

 merest accident, as he fell, he was able to grip the gunwale with both 

 hands by the fingers, but unfortunately in the very dangerous position 

 between the boat and the rocks of the curve along which we were 

 rushing at a tremendous pace. So narrow was the interspace at times 

 from projecting rocks in front, that it seemed impossible that he could 

 escape from being crushed. His grip must have been like that of a 

 vice, for he was constantly splashed and buffeted by the rough water ; 

 and any attempt to haul himself up into the boat must have been 

 disastrous. The man's life lay, of course, in Eitchie's steering, and it 

 was splendid. He had constantly, down the long run, to keep the boat 

 sufficiently out from the rocks at the side of the curve and from those 

 projecting into the channel, both for the safety of the man and of the 

 boat itself, both of these operations usually being very largely a part 

 of the bowman's work by heading off the boat with his long paddle. 

 Ritchie's success again depended on the pace the paddlers could give 

 over the rushing water, and this every man in the boat — all Indians — 

 knew, and they struck with every ounce of their strength to give 

 Ritchie the extra headway on the boat that success required. 



We in the first boat had not seen the accident. Running through 

 the cataracts is always exciting, and this one from its great curve and 

 numerous rocks was dangerous. We were spell-bound by it. Jacob's 

 attention, even amid the sound of our quick paddles had been caught, 

 however, by the extra heavy and rapid rattle behind. He had glanced 

 round for an instant, and then his sharp and loud call " Headway ! " 

 rang over the boat in so unusual a tone that we glanced back at him, 

 and then we" saw. It was horribly fascinating ! A human life in our 

 charge, so to speak, in great" jeopardy : the boat leaping forward at a 

 tremendous pace towards us ; and Ritchie, standing to his great paddle, 

 braced like a figure of energy. Our men probably had glanced back 

 too at the call, so unusual in the midst of a cataract, for our paddles 

 rang out even quicker to give extra pace before the oncoming boat, 

 though the captain's call was as much one to the men behind as 

 to ours. 



It was like a hard grip off one's heart when we reached smooth water 

 below and the Indian was drawn into the boat by two of the others 

 safe. He was quiet and trembling, but he at once turned to get 



