HIVES AND BOXES. 101 



'/, in. wide, and '/, in. thick. For the bottom, cut a 

 piece 16 in. long, '/, in. wide, and '/, in. thick. Nail 

 together, making a frame as shown in fig. 35. Two tri- 

 angular blocks should be added to the corners to stiffen 

 the frame. They should be about 1'/, in. on the sides 

 next to the frame. Eight of these frames will fill a hive. 

 These hives are designed to receive top-boxes only. 



DIVISION-BOAKD. 



At any time when a limited number of frames is used, 

 the brood chamber should be contracted accordingly. 

 For this purpose, a movable 

 division-board is necessary. 

 If but one or two frames are 

 used for a nucleus, and it is 

 desired that they occupy a 

 position at the center of the 

 hive, a division-board may 

 be placed at each side of the 



combs. To make one, a board ^'S" 26-^xvi6io« bo^ed. 

 of the required size, with a bar across the top, as shown 

 in fig. 26, is all that is needed. Some cut them slightly 

 smaller than the hive, and place a piece of rubber or 

 leather in a groove around the outside, to fit the sides of 

 the hive more completely. 



SIDE-BOXING HIVES. 



The question of side-boxing hives occurs here, as their 

 use involves some change in the details of construction. 

 Are they desirable ? If honey, rather than increase of 

 colonies is the aim, I answer, yes. Where a moderate 

 Increase is preferred, boxes enough to secure all the sur- 

 plus likely to be gathered, may be used upon the top of 

 the hive, by placing them two tiers high. But if swarm- 

 ing is to be orevented, I consider side-boxes indispensa- 



