BERGEN TO TROMSO II 
gulls, which seemed (and I watched them very carefully 
through the glass) to take bits of fish from the creatures’ 
mouths. They would hang above the animal’s track, 
following with keen eyes its course under water, and as 
soon as ever it neared the surface came down upon its 
head in a fighting, screaming cloud. The different 
species of Delphinidz are always very puzzling to me. 
I fancy only years of watching in these waters can make 
you sure. James Smith at the wheel said he knew very 
well that these were ‘ Herring Puffers,’ and when I asked 
him how he knew, he answered, ‘Because they were 
smaller than “Herring Hogs,”’ and seeing me look 
doubtful, he smiled pityingly—the conclusion was so 
clear. 
There were also many red-throated divers in this 
fjord, as in all the rest. 
Where the whirlpool is beneath Mount Bentsiortenden, 
nine miles below Tromsé, we saw our first herd of 
reindeer coming down across the fjells. Knutsen said 
that they cross about here, returning in September, 
though the water is two and a half miles wide, and the 
current so formidable that, catching the Saxon under full 
steam, it half swung her round. 
Just as we were dropping anchor under Tromsé, 
which we reached at 2.30 ¥.M. (788 miles in two hours 
short of four days), I noticed among a lot of common 
eiders, right across the water, one that somehow seemed 
distinct from the rest. Presently all these birds rose, 
