42 



CASSELL'S POPULAE GARDENING. 



■which, with foresight, might have been avoided with 

 comparative ease. 



"When the precaution of removing and storing the 

 hest soil for the future garden has been omitted, the 

 neglect will cause the same to be almost unmanage- 

 able for years to come, since the roots of all the 

 plants placed therein will have a hard struggle to 

 lay hold of the soil left for them. The end of this 

 will be that some quantity of manure wiU be recom- 

 mended as necessary for improving the condition of 

 the ground ; which, with careful management, in the 

 majority of cases, is not requisite for some few 

 years at the least, when sound virgin soil has to be 

 dealt with. Plenty of such will frequently be found 

 in suburban estates, that are taken up for building 

 operations. It is true some little modification of the 

 soil may be necessary for special things. Thus, 

 Hoses and Rhododendrons may require the addi- 

 tion of well-decomposed manuj'e, or a little peat for 

 the latter when the soil is somewhat tenacious; 

 but as a whole the_ ground wiU be nourishiug and 

 good. 



Preparation of Suburban Gardens. — Such 

 gardens as we have now under consideration are 

 also frequently prepared in but a superficial manner. 

 As long as they present a good appearance to the 

 inexperienced observer, and to those who are un- 

 acquainted with the modus operandi of " facing up" for 

 the time being, it is thought sufficient, regardless of 

 the future well-doing of the occupants of the garden. 

 The ground should be moved about two spits, i.e., 

 two depths of a spade, retaining the surface soil at 

 the top when it is found to be of better quality 

 than that underneath. This would be commonly 

 designated "trenching," in gardeiring phraseology, 

 and will be dealt with elsewhere. Previous to this 

 being done, however, the necessity of drains will 

 have to be considered, and these ought to be laid 

 down to suit each given case. Those that are re- 

 quired for the paths wiU not need to be laid much 

 below the sui-face, being then more accessible in the 

 event of any stoppage. For draining the other 

 portion of the gi-ounds, the depth should be about 

 two feet six inches, if in a heavy clay subsoil, the 

 draining of such soil being oftentimes frustrated, by 

 reason of the very depth at which the drains are 

 laid ; for if at three or four feet depth, they will, in 

 time, become useless, the water not percolating this 

 adhesive soil with any freedom, but rather remain- 

 ing near the surface. On the other hand, drains at 

 the latter depths will be better on lighter land. 

 For these purposes drain-pipes of at ■ least three 

 inches diameter should be chosen, and without 

 socket ends, so that the water can the more readily 

 enter them. The lowest point of the grounds should 



be fixed upon for building a tank capable of holding 

 a good quantity of the ground-water, for use in the 

 garden as occasion may require. There is no reason 

 why provision should not thus be made to secure 

 this indispensable aid, and the more so, taking into 

 consideration the high rate at present charged by the 

 water companies for any supply through them. By 

 arranging the tank in one comer of the garden, and 

 fixing a pump over the same, there will not be any 

 eyesore or inconvenience in any way ; but the 

 precaution must be taken of arranging for an over- 

 flow, so that the inlet drains never have any water 

 standing in them. 



After the drainage and trenching operations have 

 been finished, that portion of soil removed from 

 the ground taken for the house, as previously 

 advised, can be utilised, as we suggested, to break up 

 the even surface of the ground into mounds and 

 undulations, which will have a much prettier effect 

 when completed. For convenience, also, the paths 

 should be fixed upon in as early a stage as possible 

 of the work. The soil for at least ten inches in 

 depth can be taken out of this allotted space also, and 

 used as we have just advised for that taken from 

 house-space. This will add considerably to that 

 quantity, and be found of much service. There 

 will generally be sufficient rough material avail- 

 able from refuse left by the builders for the 

 formation of the paths; brickbats and such-like 

 things making a very good foundation, to be finished 

 ofil, when aU the gTound work and planting has been 

 done, with a good coating of gravel, which wiU then 

 run in no danger of being mixed up with the soil. 

 This also will be fully dealt with elsewhere. Any 

 moving operations with wheelbarrows can be done on 

 these paths before they are completed ; this will help 

 to bind them down in a solid manner. Planks 

 should be used to move any soil across that part of 

 the ground that has been dug over. The portion of 

 space devoted to shrubs and borders should be staked 

 out, to give a rough idea of the plan to be worked 

 upon. This should then be dug or forked over, if 

 any of it has been trodden upon so as to cause it to 

 become heavy and close. 



The planting operations can then be commenced, 

 fixing on the spots for the most prominent shrubs 

 andplants with due regard to their style of growth, 

 and what they are likely to be in appearance in a 

 few years' time. The smaller shi-ubs can then be 

 planted, and, as this work proceeds, the ground 

 should be lightly forked over. The staking of tall 

 plants that are likely to be blown aside by the wind 

 should be seen to, and, in doing this, a little wad of 

 straw, if tied around the stem, will preserve it from 

 injury by friction with the stakes. We would ad- 

 vise that aU newly-planted shrubs be watered at 



