THE VINE AND ITS FEUIT. 



231 



sand at tke base of the bud. If a close, temperate 

 frame is at command, it is a safe practice to 

 place all choice kinds in it for a fortnight before they 

 are taken into strong bottom heat, aa an excess of 

 this element forces the bud in advance of the roots. 



When the young plants have exhauste(i the 

 sap contained in the ej'e, in the formation of the 

 first one or two leaves, very steady top and bottom 

 heat will be needed to aid in the formation of the 

 first set of roots ; and when they touch the sides of 

 the pots, as will be indicated by the yoxmg shoots 

 making a fresh push into growth, a shift into five-inch 

 pots ■will be necessary. A bottom heat of 85° will not, 

 now, be too much; and more light and air, while 

 securing a quick growth, will also tend to its being 

 short- jointed and stocky. As days increase in length 

 and solar heat becomes more powerful, the growth of 

 the young canes, as well as the roots, will be very 



rig. 6.— Dormant Eye. 



rig. 7.— Dormant Eye. 



rapid ; more head-room will be required, and unless 

 the vines are intended for summer planting, they 

 will also be benefited by the final shift into eight-inch 

 pots, which is quite large enough for store vines. 



In order to secure firm, short- jointed canes,. either 

 for planting or growing into fruiting vines, great 

 care should be observed in the preparation of tho 

 pots and the soil for the final shift. The compost 

 should consist of sound, rather light loam, with a 

 liberal admixture of bone-dust, burnt earth, or char- 

 coal. Pot firmly, and re-plunge for a short period to 

 give the roots a fresh start. When they have re- 

 covered from the check, gradually raise the pots out 

 of the bottom heat, but allow them to stand on the 

 surface of the bed until they require more room. 

 Keep them regularly supplied with warm, diluted 

 liquid manure, and syringe overhead when the pit is 

 closed in the afternoon. As soon as there is danger 

 of the foliage obstructing the light, remove all the 

 strongest to a light house, where they can have the 

 benefit of a temperature ranging from 65" at night to 

 80° by day. Pinch all laterals at the first joint, and 

 finally stop the points when they have made canes six 

 feet in length. If any of the top buds break, let 

 them grow a little and stop again. Keep them fully 

 exposed to every ray of sunshine, give air early on 

 bright mornings, and close with moisture in modera- 



tion, as too much produces warts on the under sides 

 of the leaves, which in time check the progress of 

 the vines. When the young canes begin to show 

 signs of changing to a bright cinnamon colour, 

 gTaduaUy withdraw atmospheric moisture, but on no 

 account neglect the roots. Eemove the laterals from 

 the base up to within a foot of the top bud, care- 

 fully preserving the main leaves, as they will have 

 to feed the buds, now plumping up in the rapidly- 

 thickening canes. Increase the circulation of warm 

 air as the ripening process goes on, lower the night 

 temperature, and dis- 

 continue syringing 

 altogether, if the foli- 

 age can be kept free 

 from spider without 

 it. When the leaves 

 fall, place the vines in 

 a cold house or against 

 a wall, where they can 

 be protected from 

 heavy rain and severe 

 frost, but never allow 

 the roots to become 

 -dry. If fruiting vines 

 in pots are wanted, 

 ten or eleven-inch pots 

 should be used instead 

 of eight-inch. In all 

 other respects, the 

 treatment of the two 

 sets will be identical. 



• Eyes in Turf.— 



We are indebted to 

 Mr. W. Thomson, the 

 intelHgent proprietor 



of the Galashiels Graperies, for this excellent way 

 of propagating vines specially intended for spring 

 planting. The eyes arfe prepared in the usual man- 

 ner, but instead of placing them in pots, small 

 squares of thin turf are laid close together, grass 

 side downwards, on the top of a hot-bed. One eye 

 is inserted in the centre of each square, which it soon 

 fills with roots ; and young canes in the rudest 

 health, with roots radiating in every direction, be- 

 come fit for permanent planting or potting by the 

 end of May. 



G-rafting. — This is an operation in which many 

 are not so successful as they could wish, and yet it 

 is extremely simple, provided that it is done at the 

 proper time. The most successful grafters of the 

 vine are those who can have patience to wait imtil 

 the sap is in free motion, and all the cells are full, as, 

 owing to the porous nature of the woodj every cut 



Fig. 8.— Eye starting into 

 Growth. 



