THE VINE AND ITS FRUIT. 



343 



These should he made of half-inch deal, just large 

 enough to take in the stand and clear the fruit when 

 ■ the lid is secured ; pass two screws through the case 

 from the outside into the back or upright part of 

 the stand to keep it from working forward, and ao 

 placing the points of the bunches in contact with the 

 cases ; put on the lid, and secure it with a stout strap 

 like a stirrup leather. If passed round the middle, the 

 straps offer facilities for carrying the cases, and they 

 can be quickly removed when time is of importance. 

 "When removing the cases great care must be 

 observed in keeping them level, as a turn over would 

 be fatal. Many exhibitors never lose sight of their 

 boxes, or allow them to pass out of their hands ; but 

 if kept level, grapes worth exhibiting will stand 

 more shaking than many people imagine. 



VINES IN POTS. 



Fruiting Vines in Pots. — In large grape- 

 growing places this mode of culture has fallen into 

 neglect, as good winter grapes can be kept over the 

 period at which the fruit from pot vines was for- 

 merly considered of value. Where late winter 

 grapes are not grown, and it is necessary to get an 

 early supply of new ones, or where newly-planted 

 houses afford room for growing a set, they often 

 come in very useful, as weU-prepared canes readily 

 respond to forcing. But where a structure is 

 specially devoted to them, a low span-roofed house 

 or pit answers best, provided it is light, well glazed, 

 and heated, as it is less expensive in fuel, and where 

 the demand is not heavy a few pots wiU often save a 

 permanently planted house for later and more certain 

 use. 



Although pot vines ready for forcing can be pur- 

 chased by the thousand, gardeners always prefer 

 growing their own when they have convenience for 

 doing so, and as this entails the use of two houses 

 for one crop of fruit, the system cannot be recom- 

 mended on the score of economy. To many, how- 

 ever, it is interesting and instructive, as it enables 

 them to grow and test many varieties, which, under 

 other conditions, they could not do. Some good 

 cultivators grow their vines from eyes one year and 

 fruit them the next under the treatment explained 

 in the chapter on the Propagation of the Vine; 

 others use cut-backs, which make stronger growth, 

 but it is questionable if they are better than weU- 

 ripened yearlings. 



The varieties best adapted for forcing are Black 

 Hamburgh, Madresfield Court, Alicante, Foster's 

 Seedling, Duchess of Buccleuch, and White Musca- 

 dine. All the Frontignans also do well in pots. 



Vines for pot culture should always be ripened 

 early, and if forcing is to commence, say in Novem- 

 ber, they should be cut back to the required length 



by the end of September or earlier, if they have lost 

 their leaves before that time. As a moist, mild 

 bottom-heat is of importance, provision should, be 

 made for surrounding the lower parts of the pots 

 with fermenting material, but as leaves or tan keep 

 sinking and drawing the pots away from the trellis, 

 the latter should be placed on firm pedestals or 

 shelves, an arrangement which will admit of turn- 

 ing and renovating the material when it gets too 

 low or the heat begins to decline. Having washed 

 the vines, enlarge the holes in the pots with a ham- 

 mer to set the crock roots at liberty ; place each 

 vine on a sod of good turf laid grass downwards on 

 the pedestals, and introduce the fermenting material 

 loosely at first and partly burying the lower parts of 

 the pots. Defer tying up the canes and allow them 

 to hang loosely over the bed, with the back buds 

 raised to the highest part of an arch, and the points 

 on a level with the rims of the pots. Syringe regu- 

 larly three times a day, and give the temperature re- 

 commended for starting early vines. Water very 

 sparingly at first, as too much would make the soil 

 sour, and most likely rot many of the roots. Raise 

 the temperature of the pit to 60° by the time the 

 buds break, and gradually increase the heat to 68° 

 by the time the bunches come into flower, allowing 

 a daily increase of five degrees from fire heat and 

 ten degrees from solar heat when the weather is 

 favourable. Discontinue direct syringing after the 

 bunches become prominent, but on no account neg- 

 lect the supply of water to the roots, as pot vines in 

 leaf wUl take liberal supplies of warm, clear diluted 

 liquid or guano water at short in'ervals. 



When aU the buds are thoroughly on the move, 

 decide upon the mode of training. Some coil them 

 round four sticks placed in the pots, but the most 

 simple way is to tie them up to the treBis like ordi- 

 nary vines, as the side shoots can then be tied out 

 and stopped at the second joint beyond the bunch, 

 and the latter are most conveniently placed for thin- 

 ning. If they show freely, remove aU the bunches 

 that are not likely to be wanted, as overcropping is 

 fatal. Stop all laterals on the shoots carrying 

 bunches, but lay them in from the others after the 

 first stopping, wherever there is room for foliage to 

 expand to the influence of sunheat and light. Top- 

 dress from time to time with lumps of turf, manure, 

 and bone-dust in moderation ; also spread a little 

 about the sods when the roots have found their way 

 into it, and keep the bottom-heat at their level at 

 75° to 80°. When the stoning stage arrives, 

 slightly reduce the night-heat to 65°, to give them a 

 little rest during, this trying process; but raise it 

 again to 68°, if time is an object, when it is over. 



Pay regular attention to ventilation from the be- 

 ginning, keeping the house rather dry and warm. 



