CASSELL'S POPTJLAE GAEDENING. 



from eight to twelve inclies in depth, and from 

 three to four feet in width. The length not to he less 

 than four feet, and as much more as can he made 

 up -with existing- materials and extent of crop 

 required. When the soil is being taken out from 

 the trench, lay it in equal quantities on both sides, 

 and place the fei-mentuig materials therein, to a 

 depth of about three feet. These materials may 

 consist of all kinds of garden clippings, sweepings, 

 and gleanings collected together in process of 

 cleaning up, even to hedge and ditch clippings. Sec, 

 and the green grass collected in process of lawn- 

 mowing, &c. Mix all up together well. Make the 

 top somewhat flat, and cover the sides over, with the 

 soil previously taken from .the trench. Place a long 

 stick in the centre of the mound, and when it is 

 perceived, by drawing this stick out and feeling it, 

 that the materials are heating, in process of fer- 

 mentation, procure good rich, fibrous, yellow loam, 

 add to it about one-third of rotten manure, mixing 

 both together, and place a ridge of it along the top 

 of this mound. Either sow seeds at once along the 

 apex of this ridge, or, having procured plants, plant 

 them along the centre of the mound, at equal 

 distances of about twelve or fifteen inches apart. 

 It is an excellent aid, in both cases, to place hand- 

 lights or bell-glasses over them for a few weeks, 

 giving a moderate quantity of air to the plants so 

 soon as they exist beneath. 



To ascertain whether the heat is likely to be in 

 excess of what may be actually required, as 

 occasionally dm-ing the first two or three weeks it 

 may be, test-sticks must still be maintained within 

 it, which should be withdrawn and felt occasionally. 

 If at any time they become very warm, make holes 

 in the mounds with a large stake, leaving them open 

 when made, in such manner that the excess of heat 

 can rush out through them. By these means, injury 

 therefrom to the young growing roots is not likely 

 to occur. Growers who cannot tell from moderate 

 experience how warm mounds are by this simple 

 means, may make a similar hole, about the centre of 

 the mound, insert therein a thermometer, cover it 

 over, and ascertain in a few hours subsequently what 

 amount of warmth it registers. Should this exceed 

 100°, it will be necessary to subdue it by means of 

 the holes as suggested. When it does not exceed this, 

 the internal heat is not likely to become too great. 



When seeds are sown in the ridge, the young plants 

 will, so soon as they have formed three or four rough 

 leaves, need " stopping," that is, pinching out the 

 points just beyond the third or fourth rough leaf. 

 This will induce them to "branch out," or fonn 

 duplicate young shoots, in lieu of the one only 

 existing previously. 



As growth advances, give more and more air to 



hand-lights. Si bell-glasses, untU these are be. 

 coming moderately filled with the growths, then 

 elevate them upon bricks, in such manner as to per- 

 mit the young shoots to grow out under and beyond 

 them, pegging them down in place as they extend. 

 At this juncture give root waterings. When growth 

 is seen to be free and to have extended beyond 

 these sheltering hand-lights, remove them bodily, 

 choosing a fine warm period for the purpose; and 

 dm-ing the afternoon of any chosen day. Should the 

 sunshine be very powerful on the following days, 

 place a few tree-branches for shade over such parts 

 of each plant as previously grew under hand-lights, 

 to secure them from injury thereby. During all 

 subsequent dry weather periods give root waterings, 

 as may be deemed expedient, so as to insure a free 

 and constant supply of moisture. Occasionally pinch 

 back any strong growths, needful to insure fruiting 

 laterals, and pinch back the point of each lateral at 

 one leaf, beyond where all female flowers are seen to 

 exist. As the plants progress in growth, add a little 

 fresh soil and manui-o in equal parts to the surface 

 of the ridge, in such manner that an occasional joint, 

 or the axil of a leaf upon a matured branch, be 

 buried therein. By this means roots will be induced 

 to form thereon, to the general benefit of each plant, 

 and its fruit-bearing capacity. Syringe the leaves 

 over morning and evening during dry arid weather, 

 after once they are well established, taking care to 

 search among the leaves, &c., often, to ascertain 

 what fruits exist, in view of removing them at the 

 earliest moment possible, when of sufEcient size ; to 

 permit them to remain upon the plants one day 

 beyond, is to unduly tax the latter, to the depriva- 

 tion of future fruits and permanent health. 



The best varieties, of which many exist, are : — ■ 

 Abbott's Prolific, Cuthill's Black Spine, Dread- 

 nought, Carter's Model, Telegraph (RolUnson's),aud 

 Tender and True. For outdoor ridge-work, Im- 

 proved Stockwood Long Ridge, Incomparable Ridge, 

 and Long Prickly. 



CUCUMBUB-GROWING BT EZPBESS. 

 Bt D. T. Tish. 

 This is the latest and newest departure in the cul- 

 ture of the Cucumber ; and as it is the speediest, it 

 is also likely to become the most popular and profit- 

 able mode of production. Hence, it is needful to 

 describe it in a work of this kind by one who 

 has reduced it to successful practice. In brief, as 

 the title implies, it is a fast mode of production. 

 This, of itself, is a high recommendation, for the- 

 quality of Cucumbers, like that of Lettuces, is 

 largely dependent on the rate of growth. The faster 

 in reason they can cover the space between the start 

 and the finish, the sweeter, more crisp, and tender 



