THE INLAND SEA REVISITED. 39 



walking trip to Enosima, which I had heard was noted 

 for them, as a sort of forlorn hope. My track lay 

 through a very beautiful part of the country, bordering 

 one of the great gulfs (the TJraga Gulf) which runs 

 up fifty, miles from the outer coasts. Kamakura, the 

 site of the ancient capital of Japan, lay en route, 

 and I again visited it. Here a group of half a dozen 

 very fine Buddhist temples still remain in perfect 

 condition. A long avenue from the sea leads up 

 to them. At the temple end of this avenue you pass 

 over a curious high-arched bridge of solid slabs of 

 stone ; on either side is a pond surrounded by beau- 

 tiful firs, Gryptomaria elegans. A few years before I 

 had leant over this bridge and watched the mallard, 

 widgeon, and numerous other wild-ducks as they swam 

 about on those tiny lakes. Fearlessly, for they were 

 never molested, these birds lived here, and picturesque 

 and beautiful they looked amongst the lovely water- 

 lilies and other aquatic plants. But now they were 

 no more. The stranger, in the shape of all kinds of 

 foreigners, had taken to visit this quiet spot, stones 

 had been flung at them, and guns let off indiscrimin- 

 ately. Frogs, water-beetles, and fresh-water shells 

 still remained, but the ducks were elsewhere. Passing 

 over this bridge, you enter an open space, with the 



