1 88 JAPANESE CUSTOMS AND HABITS. 



man, all round, I ever knew, was the Governor of the 

 wild eastern districts of Yesso, — a hard, energetic, 

 active man, whose name, " Mat's Moto " (the pine-tree), 

 always appeared most applicable to him. On my 

 leaving ISTemero, a settlement in the extreme east of 

 Yesso, where he resided, he begged me to accept a little 

 present — quite a small thing — consisting of a great 

 relish, which he was sure I should find most excellent, 

 most appetising ; in fact, it was quite a delicacy. I 

 wondered what this could be, what Nemero, a cold 

 wild place, could possibly produce deserving such com- 

 mendation. On his coming to say adieu, he brought 

 this delicious morsel, which was nicely secured in a 

 neat clean tub, and looked from the outside, though 

 large, certainly as if it ought to contain something 

 worth having. I thought it gave out rather a strong 

 smell before it was opened ; but on the top being taken 

 off, those standing near were assailed with a most 

 dreadful stench, something too awful, — need I say 

 more than that it was whale's flesh in a putrid state ! 

 The Japanese are more enlightened now-a-days, and 

 possibly appreciate less tasty viands ; but whale's flesh 

 in this condition was, in the days I am speaking of, 

 considered a great delicacy. The tub and its contents 

 went overboard the moment after the lid was removed. 



