66 



THE BANTAM FOWI,. 



for protection at night, and which also affords a shade from 

 the sun in the daytime. The shutter can be lowered to any 

 desired height by having a chain attached. The coops should 

 be lime washed every five or six weeks; this is very impor- 

 tant, if you would have strong, healthy chicks." 



No doubt many who follow the above reasoning will 

 have their doubts as to ■the results of the "no water" for 

 Bantams. We can assure you, however, it is worth the trial. 

 The writer has tried it, and shall continue 1:0 experiment 

 with the no water system until satisfied as to whether it is 

 good or bad. So far, as before stated, I have refrained from 

 giving water till the Bantam chick went for and found it 

 outside of and a^way from its coop. In some instances the 

 chicks have been over a week old before they had water, 

 and I never had better success with them than when under 

 the ftry grain food and the no water system till they found 

 it for themselves. M^sh food for Bantam chicks is not ben- 

 eficial to them for several reasons. First of all, it makes 

 them grow too fast and too large: then again, it is loosen- 

 ing, and often causes bowel trouble if the wea/ther turns 

 cold or damp. 



MORK ABOUT FEKDING. 



Fortunately we do not all think alike. In proof of this 

 I give for your consideration all sides of this most impor- 

 tant question, and quote from the English fancier, Mr. J. 

 Downer, as follows: 



"Having bred and reared Bantams for some years with 

 a fair share of success in breeding, rearing and exhibiting, 

 the following remarks may meet your approval. I hope 

 they may be useful and interesting to your readers. 



I prefer incubator hatched chicks to those hatched under 

 large hens, for tho reason that every time I teed mine I 

 handle some of th'em, when the old hen raises the alarm, 

 making them run in all directions, and she is liable to tram- 

 ple on them. 



If hatched under a hen, first give the mother a good 

 feed of soft food— Spratt's meal, mixed with sharps or bar- 

 ley meal. This she will very much relish after being fed 

 on hard corn for three weeks, which is most suitable, as they 

 are not so likely to soil the nest. 



The chicks \vill not require any food for the first twenty 

 to twenty-four hours after hatching. By that time have 

 ready some hard boiled eggs, chopped very fine, adding a 

 sprinkling of medium oatmeal. With this feed every two 

 hours, giving very little and fresh each time. 



They will not require any drink until the third day, 

 when a little condensed milk and water may be given each 

 time of feeding. (Condensed milk mixed with water is good 

 for all young chick';.) But on no account leave it in the run, 

 as they are always inclined to drink more than is good for 

 them. 



When about a week old begin to give the best Scotch 

 oatmeal and chicken groats, gradually leaving off the egg 

 food; that is, if the chicks are strong and healthy and do 

 not droop their wings. Some chicks are as sirong at a week 

 old as others at two. 



A little water may be given to drink at intervals, with 

 milk. 



After the chicks are under the hen for the night, scrub 

 the boards on which they are fed and wash the drinking 

 vessels. I prefer small flower pot saucers for that purpose, 

 being easy to clean and nearly always empty at feeding time, 

 so it insures the chicks always having fresh water. 



Pill the saucers ready for the morning, in which put one 



or two tablcspoonfuls of coarse oatmeal. By the time you 



are up in the morning you will find the saucer empty, and 



your chicks will have enjoyed their cold porridge breakfast. 



Feed the mother on dart, buckwheat and small wheat. 



so, when feeding herself, she will call her chicks, who will 

 try to pick up, and when old enough will eat 'that kind of 

 grain, a good staple food, with the addition of a little hemp- 

 seed, which will add sap and gloss to the feathers. 



Two or three times a week give grass, watercress or 

 lettuce, cut up fine with a pair of scissors. Bantams, if 

 treated as I have stated, will become very tame, especially 

 if kindly handled, smoothed gently, and given an occasional 

 sponging of the head and facte to get them used to the show 

 preparation, so that, when exhibited, they will not turn 

 their backs to the visitors, but will pass their little heads 

 through the pen wires to be stroked or receive tidbits. I 

 may say, from experience, that Bantams, if well looked after, 

 their wants and comforts well studied, will add both pleas- 

 ure and profit to their owner." 



POSSIBLK TO FBSD TOO MUCH. 



Here we have a sample of the other side of feeding, and 

 from one who claims to know: It is quite possible to feed 

 young Bantams so much as to have them grow out of all 

 proportion. Heavy grain and soft food fed to Game Ban- 

 tams will spoil their shape and size and make them grow 

 much too heavy a coat of feathers. A limited supply of 

 hard .?rain food is best for all Bantams that are close feath- 

 ered, no soft or mash food, and the meat they get should 

 be dry beef scraps. It is also possible to be too close in the 

 feeding of Bantams, and by so doing have them under size 

 and lacking in vigor. This is just as bad as the other. Some 

 cracked corn, hulled wheat, barley and rice is good for 

 them. When at liberty they have a chance to get plenty of 

 bugs and green food, so neither need be given; but when 

 in confinement both must be furnished them. 



Cochins that have their full growth, also Rose Combs 

 and Sebrights, may be fed some soft or mash food for the 

 benefit of better or longer feathers at molting time. When 

 your old or breeding Bantams have a free range, but very 

 little food should be given them — just a light feed twice a 

 day to help them along is plenty. When confined in runs 

 their wants musit be fully met so they will not become thin 

 or too poor to produce any eggs. Don't get the idea that 

 Bantams need to be starved, for this is not the ease; but 

 there is a long distance between stuffing and starving. Grit 

 and green food, plenty of it, must be given to them at all 

 times. They will surely suffer if without it. Chick grit, 

 small shell and a little charcoal broken as small as grains 

 of wheat should always be where they can help themselves. 

 Water they should have at all times. 



S.MAI.I, BRERDING HOUSRS. 



Many have for their Bantams small pens or houses no 

 bigger than a dog kennel. A house 3x4 and 2% feet high in- 

 side is often made use of in a yard of six or seven Bantams. 

 These houses may be within a wire enclosed run that is 

 covered on top, and the old fowls, the h'en and the small 

 chicks may be within tho enclosure and away from all cats, 

 hawks or crows. Let it be remembered at all times thait 

 rats, weasels or other vermin of this sort will des'troy Ban- 

 tams, both old and young, if they have the opportunity; so 

 it is always best to guard against such attacks by night at 

 least. 



THE GRACEFUL BANTAM. 



Eds. Country Gentleman— Although Bantams cannot be 

 Included among the economic varieties of poultry, we can 

 scarcely deny them a place In our dealing with the various 

 races, from the fact that they are so largely kept. Not a 

 few of those who go in for the miniature races declare that 

 they are the most profitable of all, in that they produce 

 more in eggs and flesh, relative to the cost of food and main- 



