FLESH FOOD FUENISHED BY THE FEATHERED TRIBES. 157 



good deal of the sportsman's attention. Woodcocks have 

 occasionally been shot as heavy as 20 ounces, but 12 

 ounces is about the average weight. The curlew, com- 

 mon on our coasts, is often sold for woodcock when these 

 birds are scarce. The American woodcock is Philohela 

 minor. 



The best woodcocks in France are sent to Paris from 

 Nancy, Ardennes, Burgundy, and Berry. To ascertain 

 their quality, the belly should be examined, this should 

 be hard and full when they are fat. The rump and the 

 loins should also be furnished with firm, white fat. 

 Around the neck will be seen a vein of the same fat of 

 the colour of ivory. In order to ascertain if the bird is 

 young and tender, the bones at the extremity of the 

 stomach should be tested ; if these bend the bird is young 

 and tender ; if not, it is old and tough, and only fit to 

 cook in a pasty or stew. Woodcocks weigh generally 

 450 to 500 grammes, or about one pound. The wood- 

 cocks sent from Nantes, Eennes, Brest, and all Brittany, 

 are about one-third less in size, and are rarely fat. They 

 are sent m great abundance to the markets of Paris in 

 October and November. The woodcock may be kept fit 

 for eating long after killing, and many prefer them high. 



Of grouse, besides our home supply of red grouse 

 (^Lagopus scoticus) from the Scotch moors, we import 

 immense numbers of ptarmigan or white gi'ouse {Lagopus 

 vulgaris) from the north of Europe, and some rutfed 

 grouse {Bonasia umbellata) from the United States, but 

 not in great quantity. Of European grouse one ship 

 has brought over from Norway 24,000 ptarmigan, and 

 one poulterer in London will sometimes receive 15,000 

 of these birds. 



The Scotch grouse are smaller than those from Sweden 

 and Norway. Their flesh, although of a grey colour, is 

 excellent, and has a flavour very agreeable and aromatic. 



The gelinotte {Bonasa betulina) or grouse of Russia is 

 rather smaller than that obtained from Germany. The 

 flesh is of a whitish-rose colour ; when cooked it is of a 

 darker colour but delicate flavour. It is esteemed for 



