EGGS OF VABIOUS KINDS AS FOOD. 215 



with the roes of the mullet, held in high estimation by 

 the Greeks. The salted and dried roe, of enormous size, 

 of the Trubu, a species of shad, which frequents the 

 great rivers of Siak, in Sumatra, constitutes a consider- 

 able article of commerce in the western parts of the 

 Malayan Archipelago, 



The roe of the okorune {Perca fluviatilis), and of the 

 Yerschi {Acerina vulgaris), is dried in ovens specially con- 

 structed for this purpose in Russia, and is used as a 

 seasoning during Lent. The eggs of fish are sought for 

 in the rivers of India and made into cakes. The eggs of 

 the kari {Labeo calbasu) and kalmuri (Biseognathus larnta) 

 are highly prized. 



There is also a destruction by mankind of the ova, or 

 spawn, of the Crustacea — lobsters, crabs and shrimps — 

 which are carried under the tail. The lobster produces 

 15,000 to 20,000 eggs, the crayfish upwards of 100,000. 

 The lobster is never so good as when in the condition of 

 a " berried hen." Berried hens occur most frequently in 

 April, May, and June. They begin to lose their berries 

 about July. Almost the only use to which the berries 

 are put is cooking. They are employed in many pre- 

 parations by the West-end chefs, especially for the 

 colouring and enriching sauces. The chefs are also fond 

 of the coral out of the body of the lobster. As much 

 as six ounces of berries can be taken off in May from 

 a lobster weighing three to three pounds and a-half. 

 There are about 6,720 eggs in an ounce of lobster 

 spawn. 



The eggs from female crabs are also used for colouring 

 various sauces, they are mashed up with the sauce, a 

 little anchovy added, and then it is called " lobster sauce." 



The eggs of the king crab {Limulus moluccanus) are 

 collected on the north coast of Java, and much esteemed 

 by the natives. This crustacean is in some localities so 

 plentiful as to be used for manuring land. 



