FOOD PRODUCTS OF THE SEA — FISHES, 315 



the fish laid in the shade and occasionally sprinkled with 

 sea-water. After a certain period has elapsed, the flesh 

 is wrapped up in cocoa-palm leaves and buried in the 

 sand, where it becomes hard. Fish thus prepared is 

 known in Ceylon and perhaps all over India by the 

 name of " cummelmums." The pieces of fish, as brought 

 to market, have a horny hardness, and are rasped or 

 grated on rice to render it savoury. 



One of the most exquisite of the Indian fresh-water- 

 fish is the Gourami (jOsphromenus olfax) a native of 

 Cochin China and the Eastern islands. It has been 

 introduced into Penang, Malacca, Mauritius, Reunion, 

 Cape of Good Hope, Australia and Cayenne, but has 

 not yet been successfully acclimatised in Europe. It 

 somewhat resembles a carp and is covered like that fish 

 with large round scales. It is not less remarkable for 

 its size than for its excellent flavour, being usually 

 larger than a turbot and sometimes attaining twenty to 

 fifty pounds weight. 



Its flesh is delicious. Commerson tells us that he 

 never ate anything more exquisite in the way of 

 fish, whether of the sea or of the fresh water. He 

 adds that the Dutch in Batavia rear these fishes in 

 large earthen vessels, renewing the water every day and 

 feeding them on nothing but fresh-water plants. It is 

 served in the East at the tables of the most opulent and 

 sumptuous, and at St. Denis, Reunion, a young gouratoi 

 will sell for 15s. or 16s. 



West Indies. — In Guadaloupe they have several river 

 fish which are esteemed, among others the Dormeur 

 (PMlypirus dormitator), a sluggish fish with few scales, 

 its flesh is white and delicate, and transparent when 

 young. It attains a weight of six or eight pounds. 



The Loche {Eleotris guavina) has a white, fine and 

 delicate flesh, but is rather inferior to the Dormeur. It 

 is only eaten fried, but like most of the river-fish has 

 many bones. 



The Pancou (Gobitis martinicus) has white flesh, with 

 somewhat of the flavour of the eel, and resembles that 



