38 THE FOREST LANDS OF FINLAND. 
and it was very dangerous, though not so beautiful, as 
yesterday’s rapids. Looking back from below, the river 
seemed a mass of broken white water amongst a steep 
pile of rounded stones. 
‘Then came a long stretch of broad, still water, to a place 
called (I think) Oolicola Muonio; and then we came to 
Muonionsika itself. 
‘This town is half in Russia, half in Sweden; it con- 
tains a church, a merchant’s house, and a lot of excellent 
wooden houses, It is less a town than a cluster of 
detached farm-houses, each with farm-steading, corn-rack, 
and offices, The best sort are painted red, the rest are 
grey from the weathering of the bare wood. 
‘Here we were hospitably entertained by the mer- 
chant’s wife, and slept on beds of down. 
‘Sept. 10.—Rose early from the first beds we had slept 
in for ten days; had a famous breakfast, and departed. 
‘Our new crew of three had to break their way through 
ice in a creek below the house. They were engaged to 
take us all the way to Torneo; and one spoke a little 
English, which was truly English in kind. With them 
came a hard-featured, sharp-looking fellow, who was to 
steer us down the famous Aiomboika Foss. He is sup- 
posed to be the only man that can do it, and receives a 
tax of about two shillings (English) for conducting boats 
that require his services. It is possible to walk, but we 
wanted to see the fun. The morning had been very fine, 
but by 1.30 P.M., when we started, the hills had vanished 
in mist, and there was a drizzling rain, which promised to 
get worse, and kept its word. As soon as we were seated, 
the men shoved off, and after a little splashing in ice, we 
got to the open river. The new boat was like the last, but 
rough fir hoards were fastened to the sides to resist the 
heavy water. 
‘The famous steersman, looking placid, chewed a quid, 
and took his place and the paddle, without taking off his 
mittens, Behind him, peering over his shoulders, was 
the youngest of our crew. The old bird was teaching the 
