32 FISHEEMEN OF THE UmTED STATES. 



on the part of the drivers urging the oxen to do their duty, and by a steady resistance on the part 

 of the animals, -which, being unmuzzled, find it more attractive to snuffle among the straw for 

 grains of wheat. The sledges are frequently weighed down by a mother or aunt holding a laugh- 

 ing, black-eyed babe." 



The high esteem in which they hold religious observances is gathered from the following par- 

 agraph taken from pp. 48-50 of the same work : 



"In one of the churches of the town* there is an image of our Saviour, which is regarded with 

 extreme devotion. The inhabitants, in cases of difflculty or danger, bring it rich offerings, and 

 the wealth of the image in jewels was variously stated to us at from £1,000 to £100,000, in propor- 

 tion to the faith and piety of our informants. There had been great want of rain m the island for 

 some months past, and it had been determined to take a step which is only taken in extreme cases — 

 to parade the image round town in solemn procession. * * # The square and streets below us 

 were, for hours before, one sea of carapngas and capotes, male and female, but chiefly the latter, 

 their wearers sitting on the hot pavement, chattering quietly. About 5 o'clock a large number of 

 acolytes in scarlet tunics left the church and formed a double row, lining the streets in the path of 

 the procession. Then came a long double row of priests in violet chasubles and stoles, repeating 

 the responses to a portly brother, who led the column, intoning from his breviary. Then a double 

 row of priests in white, and then a group of the higher clergy in cloth of gold and richly ' appareled' 

 vestments, preceding the image, which was carried aloft under a crimson canopy. The image was 

 certainly not a high work of art, but it seemed to be loaded with valuable ornaments. Behind the 

 canopy walked the civil governor (Count de Praya de Victoria), the military governor, and some 

 of the high State functionaries, and the procession was closed by a column of monks. As the 

 image approached, the people knelt everywhere within sight of it, and remained kneeling until it 

 was past." 



A favorite way of spending the hour of recess from work at noon is thus portrayed : 



"Within the house, whither most of our party had retreated from the roasting sun, the first 

 large entrance room was encumbered with the beautiful ripe ears of maize, of all colors, from the 

 purest silvery white to deep orange and red. It was high noon, however, and a lot of bright-eyed 

 girls, who had been husking the maize, had knocked off work; and on the arrival of the strangers 

 a lad brought out a guitar, and they got up a dance, very simiile and merry, and perfectly decorous." 



The general appearance of the peasants of the Azores is described briefly as follows: "The 

 men are generally good-looking, with spare, lithe, bronzed figures, dark eyes, and wide, laughing 

 mouths, with fine Avhite teeth. The women in the Azores are usually inferior to the men in 

 appearance, but at this farmt some of the girls were very good-looking also, with clear complex- 

 ions, and more of a Spanish than a Portuguese tyi)e." 



Their dress is very peculiar. "The girls, as soon as they can afford it, purchase, if they have 

 not already inherited, a long, full blue cloth cloak, coming down to the heels, and terminating in an 

 enormous hood, which projects, when it is pulled forward, a foot at least before the face. The 

 cloak and hood are thus a complete disguise, for if the lower part of the hood be held together by 

 the hand — a very common attitude, while the eyes can be used with perfect freedom — both figure 

 and face are entirely hidden. These cloaks and hoods are very heavy and close, and it seems 

 strange that such a fashion can hold its ground where the conditions are very similar to those in 

 the extreme south of Spain or Italy. The head-dress of the men is singular, but it has a more 

 rational relation to the exigencies of the climate. It is also made of dark blue cloth, a round cap 



" Ponta Delgada. tin the house at which the dance, just alluded to, took place. 



