TEENOH EECIPES. 39 



with a wooden knife or spatula, bringing the operation to an 

 end as soon as the berries have assumed a light brown color. 

 A single burnt berry would impair the aroma. Use no butter 

 nor lard during the process. 



Before grinding, the roasted berries are put on a metallic plate, 

 which is placed on the stove and heated until the aroma of the 

 coffee, developed by the operation, perfumes the room. Then 

 grind in the ordinary miU. and make according to the above recipe. 



In some of the most renowned of French cafes a mixture of 

 different varieties of the berry is often resorted to — Mocha, Java,i 

 Martinique, Guadaloupe, or East India being generally used to- 

 gether in carefully ascertained proportions. The result is a cup 

 which, for its felicitous combination of strength, aroma, round- 

 ness, and delicacy, is prized by the French epicure as a product 

 of the highest art. 



There is, perhaps, no more characteristic feature of Paris than 

 its cafes. They line all the boulevards and abound in all the 

 principal streets, with their rows of chairs and tables on the side- 

 walk, and their large plate-glass windows brilliantly lighted at 

 night, through which extends the vista of the great salwi (or main 

 room), with its crowd of customers, its ornamented walls, large 

 mirrors, and general gilding and decoration in the gay but seldom 

 gaudy French style. Through the maze of chairs and tables wait- 

 ers with the inevitable whiskers and long white aprons glide about, 

 tray in hand, attending to the groups of well-behaved habitues, 

 while the dame de convptow, sitting on a raised platform in a sort 

 of compromise between a box and a throne, presides majestically 

 over the scene, computes Vaddition, gives change, and receives 

 and returns the courteous salutation of every one who enters or 

 who leaves. 



Coffee, in the vocabulary of the place, may be called for in 

 the shape of a "demi-tasse," a "capucin," or a "mazagran." 

 The " demi-tasse " is merely a smaU cup of black coffee, to which 

 the customer occasionally adds " cognac," " kirsch," or some other 

 liqueur. "When the " demi-tasse " is taken with a " petit verre " 

 (meaning a little glass of liqueur), it is sometimes denominated a 

 "gloria." The "capucin," which, however, is a term seldom 

 used, is merely another name for " cafe au lait," but served in a 



