FEENCII EEOIPES. 41 



his demi-tasse of black coffee to assist liis digestion, clear tlie 

 fumes of the claret, and give additional zest to the enjoyment of 

 his cigar. And the cafe may see him once more, after the per- 

 formance is over at the theatre, if his stomach hints at a little 

 cold meat, or beer, etc. At any time during the day the slightest 

 inducement will cause him to take a seat at one of the tempting 

 little tables ; if he meets a friend, it is the best place to converse ; 

 if the weather is fine and people crowd the boulevards, it is the 

 very best point of observation. If it rains, no better refuge than 

 the cheerful hall. If he has no friend, does not care to look at 

 the promenaders, Icnows not precisely what to do, whither could 

 he go, indeed, but to the caf^, where he will find newspapers, and 

 life, and comfort. Such at least were the reasonings with which 

 I could not help crediting the crowds of customers at whom I 

 marvelled, as I passed cafe after cafe in full bloom and activity 

 at almost any hour of the day or night. 



The cafe does not confine itself to the serving of coffee. It 

 represents, in reality, a compound idea, a happy combination of 

 the coffee-house properly so-called, the restaurant, the confec- 

 tionery or ice-cream saloon, and the drinking saloon, or wine- 

 room. You may always obtain there breakfast and other light 

 meals. Besides the extract of the tropical berry, liquors, wines, 

 beer, and drinks of all sorts are also dispensed. None, however, 

 of the more or less disreputable and vulgar associations which the 

 " saloon " calls up in our minds, attach to the caf^. It is, in every 

 sense, proper, respectable. Perfect order, uifbanity, and good 

 manners prevail generally. Everybody goes to the cafe ; ladies 

 will be seen there. True, they may avoid some of the establish- 

 ments on the boulevard, where the " demi-monde " may, perhaps, 

 be too fond of airing extraordinary toilettes ; but none wiU disdain 

 to stop for a tutti-frutti at the Cafe Neapolitain, or at Tortoni's 

 for one of the famous ices which that renowned cafe furnishes. 

 In the interior of most of the first-class cafes smoking is only 

 allowed in the evening. On the whole, the cafe is a genial and 

 not unhealthy factor in French life, for it has civilized drinking, 

 and relegated intemperance to the "brassei-ies," the wine-shops, 

 and the " guinguettes " frequented by the workingmen in the 

 poorer quarters of the city. _ 



