M. soyek's method. 43 



hot ; then pour over a pint of boiling water ; cover over closely 

 for five minutes ; pass it through a cloth, warm again, and serve." 



With the sanction of such a name, the above may be looked 

 upon as embodying the most approved English recipe, although I 

 believe M.. Soyer was French by birth and education. Of its 

 general observance, however, I have strong doubts, for England 

 is certainly not the country where the ideal cup of coffee is found.: 

 Indeed, I give it as my experience that, as a rule, the English do 

 not know how to make coffee ; and even in the very best hotels 

 and restaurants, a sloppy mixture is served which compares very 

 unfavorably with that to be obtained in establishments of the 

 same grade in Paris, Yienna, or New York. 



Of all the outrageous travesties upon good coffee, however, 

 the slops dignified by that name on the English steam lines ply- 

 ing between New York and Liverpool are the worst. I have 

 crossed on the Ounard, White Star and Inman boats, and all of 

 these noble lines, which vie with each other in speed, safety and 

 seamanship seem to compete as strongly in the badness of their 

 coffee. When one is wrestling with the pangs of sea-sickness the 

 memory of the fragrant, refreshing and grateful beverage which 

 cheers the home breakfast-table comes strongly to mind, but oh ! 

 what a disappointment to the palate, stomach and brain is the 

 reality which is forced upon the passenger. Kepeated investiga- 

 tions and experiments as to the cause of this have led to the con- 

 clusion that it is almost wholly the result of either ignorance or 

 indolence, or both. As stated elsewhere the great central truths 

 in producing good coffee are yres/i roasted, fresh ground, fresh 

 made. As regards the first requisite it is not usually convenient 

 to roast coffee on shipboard, nor is it necessary if supplies are 

 purchased at each end of the voyage and kept in a tightly closed 

 tin receptacle. The second requisite is important; the coffee 

 should be ground in a hand-mill just before it is required for use, 

 and i£ the roasted beans have become damp and tough they should 

 be warmed or toasted in the oven of the gaUey until crisp and 

 fragrant so that they will grind easily. The third requisite, h,ow- 

 ever, is the most important of all. Coffee should always be 

 served as soon as made, and should never be more than fifteen 

 minutes old. It is useless for the steward to say this is too much 



