340 COFFEE. 



evidence of the civilization and progress of the^age in which they 

 were constructed, and then build up a framework of theory, which, 

 although plausible, is often not well founded. Much " history " 

 has been written in this way, and books of travel are full of high- 

 flown writing and descriptions that wUl not bear analysis by dis- 

 passionate and impartial critics. It is so much easier to " soar" 

 in describing an admirable work, than it is to quietly appreciate it 

 and describe it in plain language. This is especially true of pro- 

 fessional writers, who feel bound, perhaps, to make or keep a repu- 

 tation for " fine writing," as well as to give an equivalent for the 

 sums received for their articles. A magnificent glamour of ro- 

 mance has thus been thrown around oriental life which is as false 

 as possible. Oriental life, as it has appeared to me, is founded 

 upon ignorance, cruelty, and license. Luxury it may have for a 

 few, but poverty, dirt, and misery are certainly the patrimony of 

 the many. 



Modern Delhi is the chief city of Northern India, possesses 

 considerable commerce, and is a sort "of entrepot between the 

 northern and central provinces of India. At the time we were 

 there it was just beginning to fill up with the visitors to the grand 

 assemblage at which Queen Yictoria was to be proclaimed Em- 

 press of India. Its streets exhibited a queer medley, locomotion . 

 being provided for with elephants, camels, horses, buffaloes, bul- 

 locks, and donkeys. Its bazaars were filled with the gorgeous 

 shawls of Cashmere and the embroideries and jewelry for the 

 manufacture of which Delhi is famous. ^Native artists, who copy 

 photographs exquisitely upon ivory, abound, and jugglers, who 

 perform marvellous tricks of conjuring, importune you to witness 

 their exhibitions. The guide, or " valet de place," is also an in- 

 stitution that flourishes marvellously well in Delhi, and one who 

 attached himself to our fortunes, was worthy of description. A 

 sleek, oily little man, who glided rather than walked, and who 

 exhibited marvellous testimonials as to the value of his services 

 from former patrons. I have seen thrifty commissionaires both 

 before and since, but I never saw one with such a talent for turn- 

 ing " an honest penny " as this fellow. Bishesh Arnath stands at 

 the head of his profession in this respect. Of course we knew he 

 was making his commission on every carriage we hired and on 



