APPENDIX. 361 



than half of Greek territory proper is still under Turkish rule, 

 and its inhabitants, in common with the other Christians who 

 constitute a majority of all the inhabitants of Turkey in Europe, 

 barely succeed in existing under a government which, for oppres- 

 sion in taxation, and general tyranny, is not equalled elsewhere on 

 the face of the globe. 



Whatever the Greek islands may be in summer time, in win- 

 ter they present a rocky, barren, unproductive appearance that is 

 anything but pleasing. I looked in vain for the " eternal sum- 

 mer" which, according to Byron, "gilds them yet," and longed 

 for access to a good-sized wood-pile or a well-filled coal-box to keep 

 the temperature of my room up to a point where it would be 

 comfortable. It seems, however, that these things are almost un- 

 known in this country, and the people shiver through the cold 

 weather, devoutly praying for the early return of that which is 

 warm enough to make them comfortable. The only tree which 

 grows in Greece to any considerable extent is the olive-tree, and 

 the commercial product of this is too valuable to admit of its 

 being freely used for firewood, while there is no native coal, and 

 the people have very little money to buy that which is imported 

 from other countries. 



Athens is, of course, the most interesting place to visit, owing 

 to its associations with the past. Indeed, it subsists principally 

 upon these, for the surrounding country produces little that is ex- 

 portable, and it has little or no commerce. It is said, however, 

 to be gradually gaining in population ; the modern part of the city 

 is certainly well built and cleaner than any Eastern city I have 

 visited. The great interest of the place centres in the Acropolis, 

 with its noble old ruins, the sight of which must inevitably stimu- 

 late the appetite of the tourist for ancient history. Here one 

 obtains a glimpse of the art wliich later, under the Eomans, made 

 Italy famous, and which makes her the most attractive field for 

 the tourist, to this day. 



The currant crop of Greece, the chief item of export, is raised 

 in its westernmost islands and along the shores of the Gulf 

 of Lepanto. Zante was formerly the most important depot for 

 the export of this fruit, but of late years Patras has gradually 

 been gaining in its exports, and is now the centre of this trade, 



