APPENDIX. 371 



From Yenice to Florence by rail over the mountain chain of 

 the Apennines is a pleasant journey of some eight or nine hours 

 over one of the most picturesque of routes. In a distance of thirty 

 miles there is more costly railway engineering than I have ever 

 before seen in the same space. Within this distance there are 

 forty-five tunnels, and the spaces intervening between these are a 

 succession of substantial stone bridges or heavy rock-cuttings, 

 which must have cost an immense sum of money. Floi-ence is a 

 delightful little city, situated in the valley of the Arno, and 

 containing treasures of art which are worthy of years of study. 

 Another eight hours brings us to Rome, around which centre 

 more associations of historical interest than belong to any other 

 city on earth. The massive ruins which remain fill the beholder 

 with wonder, and the beautiful specimens of the sculptor's art 

 •which still exist are so perfect that the sculptors of all the world 

 come 'here to study, and seek in vain for inspirations which will 

 equal them. 



One good thing which the Popes of Eome have done is to 

 expend the revenues of the Church for the past two centuries in 

 purchasing and collecting within the walls of the Yatican a mu- 

 seum of art-treasures that is unequalled elsewhere in the world ; 

 it has cost imtold sums, but the money might have been spent in 

 a miore foolish way — at any rate, it has made my stay in Home a 

 most enjoyable one. En jiassani, I happened to be in both 

 Yenice and Korae during the Carnival; I saw its beginning in 

 the Piazza of St. Mark, and its ending on the Corso at Eome. 

 During the month preceding Lent the Italians of all classes go in 

 for a good time, and during the last ten days, are apparently be- 

 side themselves with merry-making. An opera has been named 

 in honor of the Carnival of Yenice, and the scenes on the Corso 

 at Eome have been described by abler pens than mine each year 

 for so long that the " memory of man runneth not back " to the 

 beginning ; so I will only mention the leading features. Daring 

 the last few days the festivities are organized by the Carnival 

 " Committee on Arrangements ; " processions of maskers in fancy 

 dresses take place every afternoon along the Corso (the principal 

 business street), while every other day races between riderless 

 horses take place. This is one of the principal features of the 



