APPENDIX. 379 



miles wide, although at their narrowest part— between Europa 

 Point and Cape Ceuta— the distance is really fifteen mUes. 



From Gibraltar to Cadiz is about eighty miles, or say eight 

 hours' run by the little coasting steamers which ply regularly be- 

 tween Malaga and Cadiz, calling at Gibraltar. The city of Cadiz, 

 viewed from the sea, presents a more striking and picturesque 

 appearance than any city that I have seen, not even excepting 

 Constantinople. Being situated upon a low neck of land project- 

 ing out into the sea, it seems to rise abruptly from the water, 

 and the tall, white houses, with their many cupolas, interspersed 

 here and there with a gilded dome, present a dazzling appearance 

 that one does not soon forget. On landing, the illusion is dis- 

 pelled, however, as there is a sameness about the appearance of 

 all the streets, and little or nothing to see. Being situated at the 

 mouth of the Guadalquivir, Cadiz possesses a considerable import 

 and export trade, and commercially is one of the most important 

 cities in Spain. 



From Cadiz to Seville by rail, via Jerez, is a pleasant railway 

 ride of a few hours, and Seville, I think, is quite the most attrac- 

 tive of the Spanish cities I have visited. Most of the streets are 

 wide and clean, and the public buildings many and imposing. 

 The old Moorish palace, or " Alcazar," is being restored in a way 

 which gives one a better idea of Moorish architecture even than 

 the Alhambra at Granada, and the cathedral at Seville is one of 

 the finest in Spain. 



Speaking of cathedrals, one finds them here most imposing 

 structures, even in the poorest towns. They are of such magni- 

 ficent proportions and appointments that one cannot help think- 

 ing that the people have been impoverished for the pui-pose of 

 building them. It is quite evident that the priestly element is a 

 controlling power in Spain. Everywhere one goes, crosses are seen 

 on all sorts of buildings, both public and private, and at street- 

 corners the images of saints are almost as frequent as are the 

 street-lamps. I was informed by a resident of Yalencia that the 

 census of some of the principal districts showed one priest to every 

 thirty-two inhabitants, and, while it would be, perhaps, unfair to 

 say that all the troubles which Spain has experienced are due to 

 priestly influence, yet it cannot be denied that the priests are a great 



