APPENDIX. 389 



secondary importance. This at first, to an American, geems quite 

 singular, but one soon becomes accustomed to olive oil, and as fond 

 of it as tbe natives themselves. I do not know why it is that 

 Americans generaUj consume so little of it, unless it be that they 

 are so dosed with castor and cod-liver oils for medicine that the 

 very name of oil becomes disagreeable to them. Certainly the 

 vegetable product, olive oil, compares favorably in cleanliness and 

 healthfulness with the animal product, butter, and the dislike 

 "which some people entertain for it is wholly the result of education. 



As above stated, the bottlers in Bordeaux buy the oil in large 

 casks in a partly refined condition, and complete the process, 

 which requires considerable experience and great care. Different 

 bottlers produce oil of slightly different flavor, by blending the 

 products of different sections of country, and considerable scope 

 is afforded in this direction. As a rule, the French oil is most 

 highly esteemed, but some of the finer Italian oils (from Tuscany) 

 are probably as good as any in the world. The term " "Virgin 

 Oil," however, is applied exclusively to the finest quality of 

 French production. 



The green olives put up for table use by the Bordeaux bottlers 

 are of several different varieties. The large Spanish olives, 

 known to us as " Queen Olives," are known to the trade as " Gor- 

 dalles." These, by the way, are quite a distinct variety from the 

 other olives grown in Spain, known as " Manzanillas," which are 

 used for making oil, the "Gordalles" having much more meat 

 but less oil. The smaller olives put up in Bordeaux are princi- 

 pally of French growth, and are known as " Ammelleaux" and 

 " Yerdalles." The " Verdalles " have a strong, full flavor, and 

 are much used for sauces, to be served with meats, while the 

 "Ammelleaux" have a little more oil and less flavor. There is 

 also a third variety, known as "Picholles," similar to the "Am- 

 melleaux " in character, but larger and longer. " Olives farcies " 

 are, as most grocers know, olives stuffed with either anchovies or 

 capers. As a rule, the American trade prefers the "Queen 

 Olives," on account of their size and fine appearance ; but in 

 Eiirope the smaller olives are quite generally preferred on account 

 of their flavor and the finer texture of the meat. 



The season for making oil lasts about six months, say from 



