130 



CASSELL'S POPDLAK GAEDENING. 



therefore, if it he put to its legitimate use, the cer- 

 tainty of a maximum crop of fruit at the least 

 possible cost, is a point which must not be lost sight 

 of. From this remark, it must not be inferred that 

 Peaches and Nectarines in pots cannot be forced, as 

 many people, to save their permanently-planted trees, 

 invariably obtain their earliest crops from pyramids 

 and bushes thoroughly established in pots, tubs, or 

 boxes. Where this is the obiect, detailed directions 

 such as will be given for the management of the early 

 Peach-house will apply. In order to attain the more 

 legitimate end, the trees should be retarded by abun- 

 dant ventilation until they approach the flowering 

 stage, when fire-heat should only be applied when 

 there is danger of severe morning frosts running the 

 temperature down to, or near, the freezing point. 

 When trees are brought on in this way, and a dry 

 bracing air is kept in constant circulation through 

 the house, it is astonishing how vigorously the 

 blossoms of the Peach expand, well in advance of the 

 wood-buds, and how freely the fruit sets in a tem- 

 perature that is equally favourable to the Cherry, 

 the Pear, and the Plum. In mild, dry seasons, all 

 stone-fruit trees set their fruit freely on the open 

 wall ; in the dry, airy orchard-house, they will do 

 the same often without the aid of fire-heat at all ; 

 but there are times and certain conditions of the 

 atmosphere which are more fatal to fertilisation than 

 actual frost itself. If, for instance, the sun is ob- 

 scured for days together, and the atmosphere is 

 charged with cold, stagnant moisture, the pipes 

 should be steadily warmed, and the apex lights 

 opened when the temperature touches- 40°. When 

 the trees are in fuU flower, they must be kept pro- 

 gressing in a dry temperature ranging from 40° at 

 night to 50° or 55° by day, when a circulation of au- 

 wiU greatly facilitate the setting process, provided 

 it can be secured without creating a cold cutting 

 draught. After the fruit is set, and if mild genial 

 weather prevails, 45° to 50° may be taken as the 

 minimum, and 55° to 60° as the maximum; but 

 higher than this the mixed orchard-house should not 

 be allowed to rise, at least untU after the stoning 

 process is complete, when fire-heat will no longer be 

 needed, but time, apparently lost during the early 

 stages, can be regained by closing early with solar 

 heat on fine sunny afternoons. Some growers have 

 advised setting and keeping open all the ventilators 

 by day and night ; but why the genial afternoon 

 warmth from bottled-up sun-heat through April and 

 May should be ignored, it is difficult to imagine. 

 One result in cold fickle seasons is certain to foUow, 

 and that is crippled foliage, subject to the attacks of 

 black and green fly, mildew, and a tendency on the 

 part of weakly trees to cast their fruit at stoning- 

 time. 



Ventilation. — ^From the preceding remarks tha 

 amateur will have gathered that fire-heat must be 

 sparingly used as a necessary agent when the weather 

 is unfavourable, and a circulation of air cannot be 

 secured without it. Through the first stage, that is 

 from the starting to the flowering period, the venti- 

 lators should be kept constantly more or less open, 

 also during the setting process. After the fruit is 

 set and swelling, plenty of air through the early 

 part of the day is an important matter, otherwise 

 the young growths will be weak, long-jointed, and 

 watery. When fine summer weather sets in, the 

 ventilators may be opened as earty as six o'clock in 

 the morning, and left open until five in the after- 

 noon, when closing with copious syringing will 

 greai-iy assist the swelling of the fruit. When the 

 latter begins to colour, throw every ventilator wide 

 open, and close or leave them open at night, accord- 

 ing to the state of the weather, and the period at 

 which the fruit is wanted for use. 



Watering.— It is difficult to advise the amateur 

 upon this important point, as an excess of water 

 when the trees are at comparative rest, is almost as 

 bad as the "want of it when they are in activity. 

 Fruit-trees, however, should never be allowed to be- 

 come dry from the time they are re-potted in the 

 autumn, until the succeeding year's wood is ripe, and 

 the leaves are ready to faU. During this period 

 partial dryness may do no harm, but care should be 

 taken that they are in a satisfactory state at the 

 time they are turned out, reduced, and re-potted. 



Immediately after this operation has been per- 

 formed, say in October, new roots will commence 

 the slow but sure process of working in the fresh 

 compost, and gradually filling up the blossom-buds 

 for the succeeding year. Therefore, whether they 

 are plunged in the open air or in the orchard-bouse, 

 a regular system of watering should from this time 

 be carefully carried on. If well plimged throughout 

 the dormant season, very little water will of course 

 suffice ; but if once allowed to receive a check, they 

 will most likely cast many of their flower -buds in 

 the spring. When the fruit is set and the trees are 

 in free growth, it is not easy to water a properly- 

 drained and potted tree too liberally. The operation 

 should, however, always be entrusted to one reliable 

 person, as owing to the surface moisture, which is 

 produced by constant syringing, it is difficult for a 

 strange hand to judge from appeai-ances. Early 

 morning is the best time to water until the trees are 

 in full leaf; but when rapid growth has set in, 

 copious supplies should be given every evening, as 

 the roots then have the benefit of a cool, refreshing 

 bath, extending throughout the night. In very hot 

 weather it may be necessary to water twice a day, 



