IN GREEN ALASKA 



their sides from the dark, mantling pines and cedars 

 above. They are the prelude of what we are pre- 

 sently to see, — the gem of all this region, and per- 

 haps the most thrillingly beautiful bit of natural 

 scenery we beheld on the whole trip, — the Mult- 

 nomah Falls. 



The train gave us only five minutes to look at it, 

 but those five minutes were of the most exquisite 

 delight. There, close at hand, but withdrawn into 

 a deep recess in the face of the mountain wall, like a 

 statue in an alcove, stood this vision of beauty and 

 sublimity. How the siren mocked us, and made 

 the few minutes in which we were allowed to view 

 her so tantalizingly brief ! Not water, but the spirit 

 of water, of a snow-born mountain torrent, plajdng 

 and dallying there with wind and gravity, on the 

 face of a vertical, moss-covered, rocky wall six hun- 

 dred feet high. So ethereal, yet so massive; a com- 

 bination of a certain coyness and unapproachable- 

 ness with such elemental grandeur and power. It 

 left nothing to be desired but a day in which to picnic 

 upon the flower-covered carpet of moss at its feet. 

 The brief view warmed me up like a great sjmi- 

 phony. It was indeed to the eye what the sweetest 

 and most stirring music is to the ear, — harmony, 

 delicacy, and power. Such an air of repose and 

 completeness about it all ; yes, and of the private 

 and secluded. The nymph was withdrawn into 

 her bower, but had left the door open. This ele- 

 19 



