FAR AND NEAR 



zontal line. The sun was shining brightly, and the far- 

 off snow-capped mountains rolled up against the sky 

 like thunder-heads. Nearer by were small spruce- 

 tufted islands, and low dark shores. Etolin Island 

 was ahead of us, and Prince of Wales Island on the 

 west. In the evening we saw the most striking sun- 

 set of the voyage. We were in just the right place at 

 just the right time. All the conditions and relations 

 of sun, air, water, and mountain were as we would 

 have had them — a scene such as artists try in vain 

 to paint and travelers to describe: towering snow- 

 clad peaks far ahead of us, rising behind dark blue 

 and purple ranges, fold on fold, and all aflame with 

 the setting sun. We looked upon the spectacle through 

 a huge gateway in our front which formed a dark 

 rugged frame to the picture. The solid earth be- 

 came spiritual and transcendent. Presently another 

 dark gateway opened in the mountains on our right 

 and other transfigured summits — Black Crag, Mt. 

 Whipple, the Pinnacles — came into view, riding 

 slowly along above and behind other blue purple 

 ranges — such depth and softness of tint and shadow 

 below, such glory of flame and gold above ! The 

 ship crept along in the deepening twilight and slowly 

 the flaming peaks turned to neutral gray. 



WRANGELL AND JUNEAU 



The morning of the 5th dawned clear and cold, 

 like a winter morning in Florida. It found us at Fort 

 32 



