IN GREEN ALASKA 



cing the blue at even a lesser height. This is partly 

 because it is a much rarer spectacle, but mainly 

 because it is a display of power that takes greater 

 hold of the imagination. That lift heavenward of 

 the solid crust of the earth, that aspiration of the 

 insensate rocks, that effort of the whole range, as it 

 were, to carry one peak into heights where all may 

 not go, — every lower summit seeming to second 

 it and shoulder it forward till it stands there in a 

 kind of serene astronomic solitude and remote- 

 ness,- — is a vision that always shakes the heart of 

 the beholder. 



Later in the day we continued our course up the 

 bay through much drift ice, and were soon in sight 

 of two large glaciers, the Turner and the Hubbard. 

 Both presented long, high paUsades of ice to the 

 water, like the Muir, but were far less active and 

 explosive. The Hubbard Glacier is just at the sharp 

 bend of the elbow, a regular "fiddler's'' elbow, 

 where the bay, much narrowed, turns abruptly from 

 northeast to south. Here, with a Yakutat Indian for 

 pilot, we entered upon the strange and weird scen- 

 ery of Russell Fiord, and into waters that no ship as 

 large as ours had before navigated. This part of the 

 bay is in size like the Hudson and about sixty miles 

 in length, but how wild and savage ! A succession of 

 mountains of almost naked rock, now scored and 

 scalloped and pohshed by the old glaciers, now with 

 vast moraines upon their sides or heaped at their 

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