52 LITTLE GARDENS 
plants in November, or, if the land were heavy and had been 
neglected, I would throw up the soil roughly into trenches, and 
leave it like that throughout the winter, so that as great a surface 
as possible might be exposed to the beneficial action of the elements. 
Then in early March digging again would bring the svil into admir- 
able condition for planting, which should take place about the 
middle of the month, if the weather is favourable. It is true that the 
spring planted Roses will not make quite such a good display the 
first year, but they will eventually make the best plants. On light 
lund a layer of cow manure should be dug in not less than 18 inches 
deep ; on heavier land in need of manure ordinary strawy farmyard 
manure would be better. 
Planting is best done in October and November, provided the 
ground has been properly prepared. During the winter months the 
roots of the Roses are iuactive and the soil is cold; if, then, planting 
cannot be completed by November it should be deferred until March. 
It is an old, old story, yet one that bears repetition on account of its 
importance, that the hole should be made large enough to receive the 
roots when these are spread out. Bruised and broken ends are cut 
off with a sharp knife; the cut ends heal quickly, and small fibrous 
roots soon form. Round beds are better than square ones, for in them 
the roots can be spread more evenly. Very often Roses are not 
planted deeply enough. Many times in amateurs’ gardens I have 
seen Roses with 3 or 4 inches of stem above ground that should have 
been below. It is most necessary that that part of the plant where 
the Rose proper joins the stock should be covered; it is easy to 
determine where this point is, for the shoots of newly purchased 
Roses arise therefrom. If the junction of stock and scion is exposed 
it is quite likely that this, the most vulnerable part of the plant, will 
be damaged in severe weather. The reason for “ earthing up” Roses 
in winter is to make quite certain that this part is fully protected. 
The point of union between stock and scion offers a sound guide as 
to the depth at which to plant Roses; it should be buried at least 
1 inch or 2 inches. If this be done the Rose proper has a chance to 
make roots of its own and so become independent of the stock to 
some extent. Roses like an open sunny position ; few give satisfac- 
tion in the shade. A few of the climbers and stronger growing 
sorts, however, do fairly well in shady places. 
PRUNING ROSES 
Pruning Bush or Dwarf Roses.—Iu order properly to 
explain Rose pruning it is better to deal first with the bush or 
dwarf Roses, and secondly with the climbing sorts. If Roses are 
grown for exhibition they are pruned harder than if grown for 
garden decoration only. The first thing to do in pruning is to cut 
out all weak, sappy growths, and those growing across the centre of 
the plant. These are cut right out and not cut back ; several good 
