PRUNING FRUIT TREES 145 
has a central stem and numerous side branches springing from it, 
while the bush has an open centre, the main shoots rising from near 
the base. The fruit of the Apple is produced chiefly on “spurs ”— 
short stubby growths. Some of these form naturally, while others 
may be induced to form by summer pruning. This is carried out 
early in July. The side growths are pinched back to some five or six 
leaves from the base, instead of being allowed to grow about 12 
or 18 inches long, as they would otherwise do. Summer pruning 
has the effect of helping the development of fruit buds at the base 
of the shoot, and so in time forming a spur. The leading growths— 
those that determine the shape of the tree—are stopped when about 
12 inches long at the summer pruning. Winter pruning consists in 
still further cutting back the side growths where necessary, to within 
two or three buds of their bases, and the leading shoot may be 
shortened to 10 inches. 
But, after all, although this pruning tends to promote the fruitful- 
ness of a tree if the roots are in good condition, it will do little good 
otherwise—in fact, it may lead to still further growth and less fruit. 
The great secret of maintaining trees in a fruitful condition lies in 
the careful practice of root pruning, so as to check exuberant growth. 
The Value of Root Pruning.—Young fruit trees invariably 
need root pruning, often every year for three or four years after 
decree Otherwise they make very strong shoots that bear no 
ruit, and the more one cuts them the stronger they grow. By taking 
out a trench about 4 feet from the stem, finding the thick roots, 
and cutting them hard back within 1 foot of their base, and laying 
others that may be growing straight down near the surface, the tree 
will be compelled to make shoots of moderate vigour that will be 
likely to flower and fruit. Young fruit trees need no manure unless 
they are growing in light gravelly land, when a mulch in summer 
time will be beneficial. The remarks about the Apple apply also to 
the Pear and Plum. The latter very often needs the most severe 
root pruning of all. 
Whenever there is an opportunity to train in a good young 
shoot that will take the place of an older one, this should be 
done, especially in Plum trees. 
Peach, Nectarine, and Morello Cherry.—These are grouped 
together, since the same methods of treatment largely apply. All 
bear their fruits on the previous year’s shoots, so naturally the 
more of these the tree contains the greater will be the crop of fruit. 
The proper time to prune is after the fruits are over; the shoot 
which has borne fruit is cut out, and a young shoot growing from 
somewhere near the base of the older one is trained in to take its 
place and bear fruit the following year. With the Peach or 
Nectarine the work of disbudding the young shoots in spring is 
important. Many more start into growth than one can find room 
for, therefore the majority are rubbed off. The work must not be 
completed at once. A week or ten days should elapse between the 
K 
