THE APPLE 3 



formed at the time named, the buds below swell and lay the foundation of 

 fruit spurs. The winter pruning may be done in open weather from October 

 to March. With garden trees the same method of planting should be observed, 

 but as ordinary garden soil is quite rich enough for fruit trees, they need no 

 fresh manure. Most garden trees of the apple are }ipon the Paradise stock ; 

 therefore, when planted, the junction of the stock and scion should be below 

 the soil. 



Trees on the Paradise stock may be pruned the first year after planting, 

 and preferably in February. Either pyramid or bush trees may be formed. 

 The leading shoots of cordon trees should not be shortened unless they fail to 

 make spurs, and the lateral shoots of espalier trees should not be pruned back 

 for a season, as such a proceeding might check the regular formation of the 

 lateral tiers of branches ; but after a year's growth the leaders may be regulated, 

 taking care to cut the lower branches a foot longer than the upper ones, as the 

 sap naturally rises. If the upper branches are allowed to extend beyond the 

 lower ones the latter may die back. Any long or ill-placed shoots on the 

 laterals may be shortened in August to within four buds or " eyes " of their 

 bases. In no cases should trees of any form be allowed to carry much 

 fruit the first year. As soon as garden trees produce an abundance of gross 

 wood and very little fruit, they require to be root-pruned. Instructions for 

 this are given elsewhere. When once the trees have formed fruit spurs and 

 produce fruit regularly, this operation need not be repeated, and, as a precaution, 

 only a portion of the trees should be root-pruned at once, for, if the following 

 spring should be dry, the crop may be entirely lost. The largest trees must be 

 operated upon with judgment, but after two root prunings they generally bear 

 satisfactorily. Old fruitless trees that have been closely pruned become fruitful 

 when the boughs are well thinned and the trees allowed to extend themselves 

 with, of course, slight regulation. 



Pruning the Apple (Summer) 



Characteristic Growths. — A. Short stubby growth, the leaves disposed almost in a circle, with 

 a blossom bud in the centre ; this is a fruitful spur, and must noi be pruned. B. Growth intermediate 

 between a spur and a wood shoot, not extending beyond a few inches ; the leaves- are closely set, with 

 somewhat prominent buds in the axils, and terminated by a conspicuous bud, often a blossom bud ; this 

 is a short stubby shoot, and must be pruned neither in summer nor winter, c. Short stubby growth, 

 but not with leaves disposed in a circle, and the terminal bud pointed, not bold ; this is an imperfected 

 spur, and must not be shortened, as it will (most likely) produce some blossom buds the following 

 summer. D. A side shoot more than five points long, and requiring either pinching in summer or 

 shortening in winter, or both ; (a) point of stopping at third good leaf (6) ; not counting small basal 

 leaves {c). e. Branch with these characteristic growths ; {d) basal bud not started into growth, there- 

 fore termed latent, and available for cutting down to (in case of necessity) to originate a new branch ; 

 (e) short stubby growths — incipient spurs ; (/) short shoot suitable for retaining to form spurs ; (g) a 

 spur with blossom bud at apex, on which fruit is borne the following summer ; (A) a growth intermediate 

 between a spur and a growing shoot, terminated by a fruit bud ; common in some varieties of apple, 

 and not to be shortened for obvious reasons ; [i] side shoots that must be either pinched in summer or 

 shortened in winter, or both, unless required for filling vacant space, or furnishing the tree with 

 branches which must be at least one foot apart ; {j) point of pinching ; (k) continuation of branch 

 growth, trained intact in case of wall or espalier tree, or pinched at (/) if a bush or pyi-amid tree. 



Pinching op Side Shoots. — f. Shoot at second stopping ; (m) point of first pinching (see shoot D. ) ; 

 (n) laterals stopped to one leaf. G. Shoot after second pinching; (o) sub-laterals to be stopped, if 

 necessary to one leaf, as shown, but not after early part of September; [p] buds plump. The object 

 •of stopping is to make the buds develop without starting into growth. 



