6o THE FRUIT GARDEN 



be filled with one or more rows of trees in pots, according to the space avail- 

 able, but they must not be so tall as to shade the trained trees behind. Span- 

 roofed houses are, however, the best for pot-grown trees. To grow pot trees 

 upon stages is not commendable ; it can be done, and successfully, but much 

 trouble is occasioned both as regards watering, and in the pruning, &c., of the 

 trees. To mix pot fruit trees, when in flower, with other flowering or foliage 

 plants is one way of courting failure. I do not mean by this that no other 

 plants than the fruit trees should be grown in the same house, but in any case 

 let the fruit trees first be considered, and everything else be secondary to them, 

 e.g. temperatures and ventilation. There is one very distinct, and in many ways 

 novel, use to which pot fruit trees may be put. It is as decorative plants with 

 the ripe fruits upon them. This form of decoration alFords a welcome change 

 from the constant use of flowers and foliage plants. 



The Best Houses. — The most convenient houses, and also the best for 

 the trees, are span-roofed ones ; these afford a maximum of light and the best 

 ventilation. A useful size is that of about i8 feet wide, with a central walk 

 (strawberries in pots can be grown on shelves above the walk). This house 

 may be 5 feet high at the sides, and 10 feet high at the apex of the roof. For 

 some purposes, and for larger trees, it is better in many respects to arrange for 

 houses of greater width and two walks — say, 24 feet wide, 6 feet high at the 

 sides, and 12 feet to the roof centre. The length can be regulated as may be 

 necessary, a very convenient length being 30 feet for one division. A large house 

 without a division is not advisable in private gardens, as a different temperature 

 in each is often desirable. In the smaller house the pipes can be arranged at 

 the sides, whereas in the larger it is better to provide for at least two pipes around 

 the central bed. No staging is necessarv ; if some trees need raising it can be 

 done with inverted flower-pots. All the rain water possible should be conserved 

 in tanks, the best position for which is under the beds upon which the trees 

 stand. One standard size of roof glass should always be used — say, 15 inches 

 by 20 inches — and for the sides above the ventilators only 21-inch squares, and 

 of good quality. The top ventilation should be by means of rising lights, 

 the side and end ventilation by means of wooden shutters. These side ven- 

 tilators should always be hung at the bottom rather than at the top. This is 

 the method adopted in nurseries and in the Gunnersbury Gardens, and is 

 found to answer well ; it prevents cold currents of air from rushing in during 

 rough weather in the spring. These houses need not be of elaborate con- 

 struction, nor are they costly. A great saving is effected in brickwork, but 

 little being required in their construction. For retarding fruit so as to extend 

 the season, a small north house will be found very useful. Under the pot 

 system of culture it is always possible to keep the trees close together until after 

 flowering, but as soon as growth commences they are best placed wider apart. 

 Thus trees sufficient for two houses may be kept in one division until the 

 embryo fruits are formed, thereby effecting an economy in both space and fuel. 



SuccEssioNAL Crops. — These can be obtained in various ways when all the 

 trees are in pots. For instance, if early forcing is essential, early fruits of 

 nectarines, peaches, and plums may be gathered, and the trees be well hardened 



