FRUIT TREES IN POTS 63 



manure with the soil, the analysis of which reads as follows : nitrogen, 40 to 50 

 per cent. ; ammonia, 5 to 6 per cent. ; bones and guano phosphates, 32 to 37 

 per cent., of which 8 to 12 per cent, is soluble ; potash, 2 to 3 per cent. This 

 manure is added to afford immediate aid to the development of the stones, 

 which, in the case of the cherry, takes place directly after the embryo fruits are 

 formed. No stone fruit, I think, passes through the stoning process so rapidly 

 as the cherry. This compost is turned a few times, and afterwards protected 

 from rain, unless it is very dry when mixed. The soil should never be so wet 

 as to cause it to adhere to the hands when potting. Above the drainage we 

 place a handful of half-inch bones and horn shavings, just as these are used in 

 vine borders. 



Pots.— Strong, well-made pots are most desirable ; weakly ones, or those 

 not well baked, will sometimes crack during potting ; and, besides, the advan- 

 tage of a strong pot is very obvious. If the pots are new, let them be well 

 soaked in water previous to use ; if dirty, then thoroughly cleanse them, and 

 let them have at least twenty-four hours' exposure before being again used. 

 As with the pots, so also with the crocks, wash them well ; it is easily done. 

 If broken pots are scarce (they are not often so), then crushed clinkers form a 

 very good substitute to place in the bottom for drainage. We only crock the 

 pots to a moderate extent, space is too valuable for much drainage. Every pot 

 should be provided with side as well as bottom holes for the exit of water. 



Watering, Etc. — After potting water the plants well, and occasionally 

 afterwards, according to the weather. Trees potted early in October require 

 somewhat careful watching if the weather is fine and dry. When warm and 

 sunny use the syringe, in order to prevent the wood from shrivelling, which 

 ought not to take place in the slightest degree. I have known this to occur 

 and the trees to suffer in consequence during the ensuing season. Trees potted 

 early will still retain a fair portion of foliage, thus enforcing the need of syringing. 

 Early in November trees intended for forcing should all be housed, not. because 

 they are tender, but in order to prevent the soil becoming too wet. Even 

 then, if fine and dry, the syringe may still be used ; after forcing has com- 

 menced, little water will be required at the roots until the buds are swelling. 

 What has to be guarded against is actual dryness at the roots. Trees not 

 forced at all can be left outside all the winter ; the pots should be protected 

 from frost, however, by a covering of stable litter, the plants standing close 

 together, and either upon boards or bricks, so that during heavy rainfall the 

 water can pass away freely. They will not require any more attention until 

 the buds are upon the point of expanding in the spring (unless it is to guard 

 against the depredations of birds). The peach and nectarine trees are then 

 placed in a cool house for flowering, and afterwards moved into other houses 

 as opportunity occurs. The plums, pears, and apples with us remain outside 

 under a temporary shelter, just sufficient to keep off frost and wet. The 

 forced trees do not, as stated above, need much water for some time. Their 

 demands will, however, increase as growth progresses. The secret of success 

 lies in avoiding the two extremes of drought and excess of moisture. When 

 the fruits are swelling quickly and wood growth is active, the trees will require 



