THE MELON 83 



house with mats. The roof glass should often be washed, as light during 

 winter is of importance to the young melon plants. As soon as it is possible to 

 determine which of the two seedlings is the stronger, the weaker should be cut 

 ofF without disturbing the roots, and the other encouraged to grow. When 

 the young plant has formed, say two leaves in addition to the seed leaves, I have 

 found it an advantage to transfer it to a larger pot, and to replunge in the 

 hot bed ; this, however, ought to be disturbed to half its depth, and a little 

 fresh litter added in order to raise the bottom heat slightly. By the first or 

 second week in February the seedlings should be sturdy, and ready for plant- 

 ing in the beds already prepared for them. Before planting out, examine 

 the plantlets carefully to see if there is green fly on them ; indeed, from the 

 first moment the young seedlings appear, this persistent enemy must not 

 be allowed to stay. 



Planting, Etc. — Make a hole in the little mounds of soil, wide and deep 

 enough to allow the tiny plant to be placed therein intact, and without disturb- 

 ing the roots. After planting, the surface soil of the seedling plant should be 

 a ^ inch lower than that of the hillock. The soil around the plants must 

 be made firm, and a small stick be placed against each for support, but far enough 

 from the stem as not to injure it or the small roots near. A trial stick should 

 be inserted in the mounds of soil to ascertain from time to time the temperature 

 of the bed ; and if found too warm a fork must be inserted in the soil beneath 

 the plants, so as to raise them ; when after a few days the heat has subsided, 

 the plants may be pressed back into position. By keeping the plants free from 

 fly and closing the house early in the afternoon, progress will be rapid, and the 

 young plants will quickly reach the trellis. In securing the young growths, do 

 not tie them too tightly. If very early fruits are desired, the plants must not be 

 stopped ; lateral shoots will naturally push out, and as soon as possible secure 

 three with female flowers on, and fertilise these with pollen from the male 

 blooms, preferably on a dty day. 



For the information of the inexperienced, I may here draw special attention 

 to the fact that in order to secure what is commonly understood as " a good set 

 of fruit," say, three fruits on a plant of the large growing varieties, and four of 

 the small ones, the female blooms on a plant should be fertilised at the same 

 time if possible, as if one or two fruits are allowed to develop before any more 

 blooms are fertilised, the chances are that a light crop will result. By a little 

 patient waiting, it is always possible to secure three or four flowers open 

 together. 



General Culture. — As soon as the roots have filled the small mound of 

 soil more must occasionally be added until the fruits are formed, then the final 

 addition of soil must be made in the form of a ridge all along the bed, and 

 almost the width of the turves which form the foundation ; press the .soil firmly 

 down. Attention must be given to tying in shoots and stopping laterals, 

 the latter must not be stopped too short ; for instance, the first lateral that 

 makes its appearance from the main stem should be pinched at the fourth leaf 

 whether a fruit has formed or not, and the sub-lateral which results should 

 again be stopped at the third leaf, and so on as long as lateral growth con- 



