THE NUT 



91 



are planted as received, and after being allowed to grow for one year the shoots 

 are pruned closely, to make them throw out vigorous shoots to form the founda- 

 tion of the future tree. At the annual pruning, make the cut so that the ter- 

 minal shoot is produced from a bud pointing outwards ; in course of time a 

 basin-shaped head of branches will result. The best shaped old trees I have 

 seen started with six shoots cut back to form twelve main branches ; from 

 these, spurs or short shoots are given off, on which nuts are produced. If the 

 trees are well managed, when 100 years old they will be 15 to 20 feet across the 

 top, but not more than 5| feet from the ground. From the bent portion of the 

 main boughs a number of strong annual shoots are produced, which in Kent 

 are called wands. Some of these are taken out in summer for packing the 

 autumn fruit ; in winter the remaining 

 ones are broken out, and either sold for 

 flower sticks or basket-making, or reserved 

 to pack the soft fruit of next season. 



The male catkins of the cob and fil- 

 bert nuts are freely produced as early 

 as February on the upper parts of the 

 boughs, and should be allowed to remain 

 long enough to fertilise the tiny crimson 

 female flowers, which are produced on 

 the smaller boughs. When the weather is 

 very warm and still, it is advisable to tap 

 the branches with a stick to disperse the 

 pollen. 



At the winter pruning the spurs are 

 thinned, and, if necessary, shortened. Old 

 wood is removed, and the stronger growths 

 cut back and thinned, leaving the tree 

 regularly balanced on all sides, allowing 

 the free admission of air and sun among 

 the branches. The foliage is larger on 

 pruned trees. 



In July or August, if time permits, it greatly helps the tree to break off the 

 stronger shoots on the upper boughs (a sharp twist with the finger and thumb 

 being all that is required) ; this benefits the buds below the fracture and assists in 

 ripening the wood. It is found better than cutting, as the broken surface allows 

 the sap to exude, preventing the formation of a secondary growth, which would 

 weaken the bush and be of no value. In summer gross central shoots should be 

 cut away also. At the winter pruning the broken ends are severed with a sharp 

 knife. A careful pruner will always proceed so that there is an abundance 

 of fresh young wood in the trees ; and when a twig shows signs of age he 

 cuts so that a fresh one shall succeed it for next year's fruiting : worn-out 

 twigs are thus never seen in old trees. Suckers from the roots should be hoed 

 off or severed with a sharp spade, and if well rooted may be reserved to make 

 future plants. 



Growths from a Shoot Closely 

 Spurred in Winter 



In following summer; (/) short shoot, or 

 natural spur that need not be shortened in 

 winter ; (k) vigorous growth broken down 

 in summer, and cut to above third bud 

 from base in winter ; (/) shoot from 

 blossom bud bearing nuts, may be cut 

 away in winter to cross line. 



