98 THE FRUIT GARDEN 



planted from g to lO feet apart according to the size of the house. The 

 act of planting in itself is a simple one. At the same time, there are certain 

 details to be observed in carrying out the work which, if neglected, will 

 adversely influence the future welfare of the tree. The soil in which the 

 tree is to be planted must be taken out to the depth of 7 inches, and to the 

 extent of about 2 feet square, or large enough for the roots to be extended 

 their full length. A small mound should be formed in the centre of the posi- 

 tion in which the tree is to be planted, to enable the planter to press the base 

 of the stem and roots well into the soil, and through the same pressure incline 

 the ends of the roots upwards. Place the tree in the hole prepared for it ; its 

 branches should be fastened to the lower side of the trellis so that the trees may 

 be trained below and not above this. It will be found that the roots are more 

 or less in layers, therefore the bottom layer must be first carefully covered with 

 the soil, working it among the roots with the hands, and making it firm as the 



work proceeds. After the first layer of roots is 



A* disposed of, the next should be taken in hand and 



i g^ , treated similarly. It is advisable to place a small 



ridge of turf around the stem about 18 inches 



>j o from it, so that when watering takes place one 



f yi _^'(&2_ may be sure it reaches the roots instead of filtering 



" " 'Q — ' I ' away into the soil of the border where there are 



Characteristic Wood Buds no roots. Give each tree a good watering a day 



(/) Single wood bud; (q) double O"" ^^^ ^^^^' planting, and here I should like to 

 bud— a wood bud with blossom impress on the Cultivator to be most careful only 

 bud at its side; (r) triple bud- ^o water the trees where the roots are known to 



a wood bud and two blossom , . . . , , ^^ • t r -i i 



buds— wood bud (in centre) be, that IS, inside the Small ridge of sou placed 

 long, thin and pointed— around the Stem. The soil in the remaining; part 



blossom buds short, bold, and r i i i i i 



rounded. ot the border where there are no roots must not 



receive any water until new roots are formed in 

 sp'''"gj and even then sparingly until summer, when copious waterings may be 

 given as the soil becomes dry. The young trees may be temporarily tied down 

 to the trellis, but the final tying should not take place until early spring, just 

 before growth commences. We will presume that planting has been completed, 

 about the end of October, which, in the case of all stone fruit trees, I consider 

 to be the best season of the year to carry out this work, either for trees under 

 glass or out-of-doors. At the same time, fruit trees may be planted with safety 

 between September and the end of February, or even into March, but the best 

 results are obtained from October and early November planting. 



Pruning. — Towards the middle of November the grower must decide 

 whether the trees are to be pruned or not — that is, if the young shoots are 

 to be cut back or left their full length. Many good cultivators will say that 

 the shoots must not be cut, arguing that the wood buds will break from point 

 to base of every shoot, thereby furnishing for next year's crop many more fruit- 

 bearing shoots than can be expected from growths cut back to half their length, 

 as I am about to recommend they should be. Were it a question of which 

 system of pruning would secure to the grower the better result as regards the 



