THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 107 



CULTURE ON WALLS OUT-OF-DOORS 



Whether the climate in a certain district is favourable or not to the 

 culture of the peach out-of-doors will, as a rule, be well known to those 

 interested, and I need only say that, if the climate is favourable, let the other 

 adverse conditions, such as bad soil and inefficient drainage, be what they may, 

 they can be overcome in the way recommended for the culture of the peach 

 under glass. I think it may be safely affirmed that the culture of the peach out- 

 of-doors is less understood and its importance less appreciated by the present 

 than by the past generation of gardeners. In all the counties around London 

 the peach and nectarine will succeed admirably, as they will also in many places 

 on the south, east, and west coasts where protection from strong winds can be 

 given. In many of our inland counties, e.g. Worcester, Hereford, Berks, Surrey, 

 Middlesex, Bucks, and some of the midland counties, they thrive well, and 

 in many parts of Wales also may be most successfully grown. With regard 

 to trees against open walls, there is no occasion to go to such expense in 

 preparing the border for outside trees as recommended for trees under glass. 

 Provided the border is sufficiently drained and the natural soil is fairly good, 

 it will be necessary only to trench aj feet deep, adding a barrowful of loam 

 where the young trees are to be planted, and a good dressing of farmyard 

 manure to the border generally, bearing in mind that heavy crops of vege- 

 tables or salads are grown there all the year round. 



The aspect of the wall upon which the peach is grown should be 

 south, although the earlier and mid-season varieties will succeed on a wall 

 facing west or south-west, and trees in such positions will often prove useful in 

 extending the season of these ripe fruits. The distance between the trees when 

 planted should be regulated somewhat by the height of the wall ; for instance, 

 if against a 12-foot wall, dwarf fan-trained trees, three years old, should be 

 12 feet apart with tall standard trees between in order to fill the wall quickly ; if 

 the wall is only 9 feet high then 15 feet between each will do. 



Nailing, &c. — It will be appropriate here to mention how the trees must 

 be permanently fastened to the wall. The old-fashioned way, and which 

 I still believe to be the best for many reasons, is nailing the shoots to the 

 wall with cloth shreds. The more modern way is to fix against the wall 

 a wire trellis to which the trees may be tied. Another method favoured 

 by some is the use of wall nails with pliable lead heads which can be 

 wrapped over the branch to secure it in the position desired without the 

 use of shreds. There is no doubt much to be said in favour of each method. 

 The system of trellising the wall secures neatness, and possibly despatch by 

 saving time in training the trees in winter. Where this system is adopted the 

 wires should be -jJ^-inch in thickness and 10 inches apart, and when fixed should 

 be distant from the wall at least i^ inches. The wires should not be galvanised, 

 for this has been proved in many instances to be inimical to the bark of the 

 young shoots. The objection I have to this system after considerable ex- 



