THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 109 



Many cultivators fasten these shoots to the wall too early, more perhaps for 

 the sake of neatness than with any other object, but it is a practice inimical to 

 success, and which I would deprecate. Rather let the shoots, when reduced 

 to a suitable number and the laterals removed, be left untouched, for I am 

 convinced that the young peach fruits up to a certain stage enjoy the partial 

 shade of the loosely disposed branches, and in consequence become larger and 

 better. However, as soon as the fruits attain their full size and indications 

 of ripening are apparent, then these shoots must be fastened in. The simplest 

 and best way to do this is to press the young shoots to the wall with hazel or 

 birch twigs about 6 or 7 inches long, fastening each end of the twig under 

 the older branches. This, secures the shoots in position for the remainder of 

 the season. When doing this work, place the fruit in the best position as 

 regards exposure to the sun ; herein, in my opinion, the nailing-to-the-wall 

 system possesses advantages which certainly cannot be claimed for the trellis, 

 in so far that the fruits actually nestle against the wall, and thereby fully enjoy 

 the sun heat. The method of fastening the young branches requires neither 

 nailing nor tying, and is done in half the time that tying to a trellis would 

 entail. A diiBculty is invariably experienced as regards the out-of-door peach 

 on walls in ripening the whole of the individual fruit at the same time : the side 

 exposed to the sun ripens earlier than that next the wall. There is no way 

 that I know of entirely overcoming this difficulty, but it may be considerably 

 minimised by exposing all parts of the fruit to the sun's influence as much 

 as possible, and by giving partial shade in very hot weather to the ripest portion. 

 I have foiind that if the fruits are placed in the fruit-room after harvesting they 

 ripen properly in three or four days. 



Fruit trees on walls are at a disadvantage as regards the quantity of rain 

 which finds its way to their roots in the course of the year when compared with 

 trees growing in the open ground. For instance, those planted against a south 

 wall get very little of the rain which may fall when the wind is in the north, 

 and not very much when the wind is east and west. Therefore the deficiency 

 should be made good by artificial means. To make this effectual I would 

 advise that a ridge of soil be placed in front of the trees about 2 feet from the 

 wall so that a thorough saturation takes place. When the fruits are develop- 

 ing, weak manure water may with advantage be given every ten days or a 

 fortnight. 



Winter Culture. — After the fruits are gathered and the leaves have 

 fallen, little remains to be done to the peach trees until pruning and nailing 

 time arrives early in the new year. As early in the autumn as a convenient 

 opportunity can be found, the border for about 2 feet from the wall should 

 be lightly forked over, the loose soil removed, and in its place some rich and 

 well-decomposed manure laid, about 3 inches deep ; cover this again with soil, 

 and finally give a good soaking of water. The winter rains will carry the 

 manurial properties to the roots, recuperating the trees, and preparing them to 

 bear heavy crops of fruit the following year. I ought to say a word on the 

 winter pruning and training of the trees, although, as regards the former, if the 

 summer treatment has been practised as advised for the peach under glass, there 



