THE PINEAPPLE 145 



to keep the surface moist). Then a good soaking with tepid water may be 

 given, and the temperature slightly raised. 



General Cultural Remarks. — The routine of culture during the follow- 

 ing summer is very simple. Pineapple plants should always be kept rather 

 dry. I mean by this that they must be allowed to become fairly dry before 

 water is applied, but when watering does take place let the soil be thoroughly 

 saturated ; always use warm water. Syringe morning and afternoon, closing 

 the pit early enough to raise the temperature from 75 to 85 degs. Early 

 in May the plants will have made considerable growth, and more soil may be 

 added to the border by filling it in firmly between the ridges. By the end of 

 September the pit will be completely filled with splendid plants, the strongest 

 of them most likely showing fruits (I have on one or two occasions cut a 

 ripe fruit weighing 7 lbs. in seven months from planting a rootless sucker). 

 As October approaches, lower the temperature somewhat, and keep the soil 

 drier. When the pit was planted the suckers would be of various sizes, and 

 this is an advantage which will now be apparent ; some fruits will appear in 

 the autumn, some in winter, and some in spring and early summer, according to 

 the size of the suckers when planted. The largest plants should, of course, be 

 placed in the back rows. Fruits appearing in spring are usually the finest, as 

 they have all the summer in which to develop. The Rothschild pineapple 

 not rarely bears fruits weighing 11 lbs., those 9 lbs. in weight are common. 

 The Smooth Cayenne variety does not bear quite such heavy fruits, those 

 weighing 10 lbs. are rare, those from 7 lbs. to 8 lbs. are common. When 

 February comes round again the temperature should be slightly raised as 

 in the previous year ; water with manure water from the farmyard at a 

 temperature of 80 degs. The bed will be full of healthy roots, therefore 

 manure water should be applied in a diluted form at every watering. Keep the 

 atmosphere moist by syringing, and increase the temperature slightly as the days 

 become longer and warmer. Before the fruits are heavy, two stakes must be 

 placed against each for support, otherwise the crown {i.e. the leaves on the top) 

 becomes crooked, thus altogether spoiling the appearance of the pineapple ; 

 moreover, as the fruit increases in weight, it must be supported or it would fall. 

 By the end of September all the fruits will be cut, and there ought to be 

 a splendid lot of suckers on the old plants. The old soil will serve a most 

 useful purpose in the potting shed or for forming borders in pits and frames for 

 the growth of early vegetables. If leaves are scarce the same bed may be used 

 again, mixing a few fresh ones with the old, although better results will follow 

 if an entirely new bed is made. The information given will apply equally well 

 to succeeding crops ; when the pits are divided into two or thfee sections, 

 and planted at intervals of three months, fruits can be had throughout the 

 year. Before leaving the subject of planting out the pineapple, it may be of 

 interest if I make a brief allusion to a method of pine cultivation known as 

 Hamilton's system, in favour in England for a short time about thirty years 

 ago ; this is really the method adopted in those countries where the pineapple 

 grows naturally out-of-doors. After the fruit is produced the suckers are not 

 taken off, but encouraged to grow and bear fruit while still attached to the 



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