THE PINEAPPLE 147 



and growth, both of foliage and roots, will have almost ceased temporarily. 

 The plants consequently will be more or less at rest. A minimum temperature 

 of 60 degs. and a maximum of 70 degs., according to the varying conditions of 

 the weather, will be sufficiently high, and this applies to bottom as well as top 

 heat. In very severe weather I would recommend that as a means of main- 

 taining the necessary temperature a covering material of, for instance, mats or 

 heavy tiffany be placed on the roof of the pit. The atmospheric temperature 

 of the pit had far better fall considerably below the average recommended 

 on an unusually cold night than that the pipes should be uncomfortably hot. 

 There is nothing more detrimental to the pine — -especially in winter, when it 

 should be at rest — than an arid heat. Towards the end of February is the time 

 for the suckers to be transferred to the pots in which they will bear fruit. 

 The size of pot which I recommend is 11 inches in diameter at the top 

 (inside). Needless to say, the pot must be scrupulously clean and also the 

 crocks, and in the case of this final removal the drainage (pieces of broken pots), 

 must be at least three-quarters of an inch deep. A very wet condition of the 

 soil at any time in the culture of pines must be avoided if best results are 

 desired ; hence the necessity of careful and ample drainage. As regards soil for 

 this final potting, the same is recommended as used for the planted-out pines. 

 I do not advocate much manure being added to the soil for the culture of fruit 

 trees in pots, and especially for the pine. Liquid manure can be given when 

 the plants have finished flowering and the fruits commence to swell. 



Final Potting. — At the final potting the same care must be observed in 

 mixing the soil as was the case in preparing it for the suckers, but little of the 

 small soil should be used. Before the young pine plant is turned out of its pot 

 it will be necessary to take away three or four of the small leaves at the base of 

 the plant. The object is to induce the plant to form additional roots from the 

 stem where the leaves have been taken off. When about to transfer the 

 plant into its fruiting pot be sure that the roots are not dry. It is a fatal 

 error to plant a dry mass of roots into new soil. Failure is sure to follow. 

 The crocks, as in the case of the sucker pot, must first be covered with an inch 

 of the rough pieces of soil well rammed down with the potting stick ; after- 

 wards as much soil placed upon this as will allow the surface soil of the plant to 

 be embedded at least an inch deeper in the larger pot than it was before. New 

 roots will then be produced from the base of the stem. Firm potting is 

 essential to success in pine-growing. The pit to receive the newly potted 

 plants is filled to the depth of 4 feet, with good leaves, oak, or beech for prefer- 

 ence. No manure likely to ferment must be used ; not a high, but a steady 

 and lasting bottom heat is required. The leaves must be trodden as firmly 

 as possible. When the bottom heat does not exceed 75 to 80 degs. the 

 plants may be plunged in their permanent quarters. 



Summer Treatment. — No water must be given for at least a fortnight ; 

 when the plants should have a good soaking, water them twice with water at 

 the temperature of 80 degs. This should suffice for another fortnight at least. 

 As new roots and fresh growth are made more water will be needed, especially 

 as the days lengthen and the sun has greater power. The watering after this 



