THE PINEAPPLE 149 



the plant receives after the fruit is formed should consist of water in which a 

 little guano has been mixed, and a safe proportion to use is a handful to three 

 gallons of water. Although the plant will now take water much more freely 

 care must be taken not to keep the soil always wet. I have found it is best to 

 vary the stimulants given, thus : water once with guano water, then clear 

 water, the next time with soot water, again with clear water, then with manure 

 water from the stableyard, and with clear water, commencing again with guano. 

 I have found it to be helpful to the development of the fruits to syringe them 

 slightly two or three times a week on very hot days. I have now brought the 

 reader within measurable distance of the goal aimed at, namely, the production 

 of a good pineapple. 



The Ripe Fruit. — As the period of ripeness approaches precaution is 

 necessary against damage by crickets, &c. I have seen splendid fruits spoiled 

 in a night by these ; the best protection is a band of cotton -wool tied 

 round the stem. In very hot weather, when the fruit has commenced to 

 change colour, it is well to hang a piece of thin paper over it to prevent 

 disfigurement by the sun. The fruit should be cut before it is quite ripe, 

 and hung near the roof of a warm, airy house. When quite ripe it should 

 be hung in a dry fruit-room until wanted for dessert or exhibition. In 

 summer a pineapple will remain in good condition for about ten days after it is 

 cut. In winter I have often kept fruits for three weeks. I will only add that 

 the plants, after the fruits are cut, must remain where they are until the suckers, 

 which have been previously reduced to one or two, as advised before, have 

 grown into strong plants ready for potting in the month of August. 



General Notes, — The bottom heat I have recommended so far has been 

 procured by means of fermenting materials only, and where these are available 

 in sufficient quantities, one could wish for no better. True, more work is 

 entailed in preparing the beds for plunging than would be the case if hot-water 

 pipes were used ; still it must not be forgotten that in addition to valuable 

 bottom heat being provided (without the expense of fuel), an indispensable 

 article in everyday use in the garden (leaf soil) is being gradually formed. 

 Where leaves in plenty are not to be had, excellent pineapples can be grown 

 by the substitution of hot-water pipes for the fermenting material. I do not 

 advocate building hot-water tanks for atmospheric moisture, but pipes having 

 troughs deep enough to hold a good quantity of water for evaporation. The 

 pipes should be fixed underneath the bed, with a covering (forming the base 

 of the bed) of slates or iron liberally perforated with holes, so that the heat can 

 easily escape, and so give the necessary bottom heat. Four 4-inch pipes should 

 be provided, supposing the border to be wide enough to hold five rows of plants ; 

 by having a valve on both the flow and return pipes, the heat can be regulated. 

 Insect Enemies. — As regards these, I only know of two which give any 

 trouble, viz. the white and brown scale (and sometimes mealy bug). To eradicate 

 the white scale many remedies have been recommended by different authorities ; 

 but, speaking from an experience of nearly forty years, I would unhesitatingly 

 say that there is no known remedy effective enough to rid the plants of these 

 troublesome pests, and the only way in which immunity can be secured is by 



