I70 THE FRUIT GARDEN 



there are great possibilities of development. The best way to secure fine 

 autumnal strawberries is to go over the beds frequently, removing every decaying 

 leaf and all the runners. The vigour of the plants is thus centred in producing 

 a crop of fruits. Another method is to remove all the summer flower stalks 

 and let the runners cover the soil, when a good crop of small berries will result. 

 However, some special culture is necessary, because the weather in September 

 and October is often damp and showery, and the fruits will rot unless some 

 protection is afforded. Plenty of short litter will prevent fruits being spoiled 

 by the soil splashing up during heavy rains. 



Strawberries in Barrels. — The method of cultivating strawberries in 

 barrels has advantages, and will prove interesting to that large class of amateurs 

 who do not force strawberries or grow them in cold frames to procure a picking 

 before they naturally ripen in the open beds. The plants we have seen were 

 quite luxuriant, and the fruits ripened some ten or fourteen days in advance of 

 those in the same gardens in the ordinary beds. This method of culture is 

 to be recommended for insuring a very early dish, especially if the barrels are 

 placed in a warm corner of the garden. 



The holes in the casks ought not to be over 5 inches in diameter, and good 

 soil should be used at the time of planting. In the centre of the tub or cask 

 three 4-inch boards are fastened together, and have holes bored in them to 

 prevent sourness of the soil, the apertures being closed with some hay or other 

 material. Water given to the plants must be evenly distributed over the surface 

 soil ; superfluous water can escape at the bases of the casks where there should 

 be six I -inch holes. A cask will take about eighteen plants on the sides and six 

 on the top, so that twenty-four plants can be grown in a space of 3 feet in 

 diameter. 



It is claimed for this style of culture that the fruit is very easily protected 

 from birds, and that from its position it is more easily ripened and keeps per- 

 fectly clean. The same plants will probably last two years in a tub, but if 

 fine large fruit is wanted it is best to plant annually, using good plants from 

 3-inch pots. In other respects they can be treated as pot plants for forcing. 

 As regards the best sorts for this culture, we recommend the stronger growers, 

 as Royal Sovereign, Sir Joseph Paxton, President, Vicomtesse H. de Thury, 

 Auguste Nicaise, Louis Gauthier, &c. But if smaller growers such as 

 Countess, British Queen, Dr. Hogg, &c., are planted, the holes need not be 

 more than 3 inches across, while a trial can be made of late varieties, such as 

 Waterloo, Elton Pine, Eleanor, Queen of Denmark, Frogmore Late Pine, &c., 

 placing the tubs under the shade of a north wall. 



Some difficulty has been experienced with the descriptions of the fruits. 

 Typical ones have been chosen for illustration. But the first fruits are not only 

 usually larger than those which follow, but they are often of a different shape. 

 It is, however, hoped that the remarks as to foliage,' habit, and any peculiarities 

 in the variety may be of assistance. It must be remembered that fruit exhibited 

 for prizes at shows is the very best the plants produce. Many consider, however, 

 that the smaller strawberries possess the better flavour. 



