THE STRAWBERRY 183 



about the weather. In January and February, however, it is different, and 

 therefore when we say that ripe fruits may be had in nine or ten weeks' time 

 from plants started in early January the weather is presumed to be moderately 

 favourable. 



The quantity of fruits required and the number of plants at disposal will 

 determine how many of the latter should be placed in heat together. Most 

 forced strawberries are placed on the market in April and May, for then they 

 are obtained at a minimum of cost and risk of failure. It is certainly an 

 advantage in forcing strawberries during the month of January to plunge the 

 plants in a mild hot bed upon removing them from their winter quarters 

 out-of-doors. They are thereby assisted considerably in making fresh roots. 

 With plants started later, however, this precaution becomes unnecessary, unless 

 the weather during February proves to be exceptionally cold. There are 

 numerous positions in the glass-houses of every garden that are well suited to 

 the forced strawberry plant. Vineries and peach-houses at rest or just started, 

 cold pits, or frames that are empty, do admirably. In cold houses little growth 

 is made, but after a few weeks there the plants, when placed in a warmer 

 house, make quicker progress than if they had been left out-of-doors altogether. 



Temperature. — Nothing is more injurious to strawberry forcing than a 

 high temperature at first. Until the flowers have appeared and the fruits have 

 formed, artificial heat should be most carefully requisitioned. The night 

 temperature during the first fortnight should be 50 degs. Fahr., to be raised the 

 next week to 55 degs., and afterwards increased to 60 degs., there to remain 

 until the fruits have " set." An abundance of air on all favourable occasions 

 when the strawberry plants are in flower is very necessary. Air both at th^ 

 top of the house and at the bottom should be given so as to provide a circulation 

 around the plants. Keep the atmosphere dry. 



When the fruits are "set" — and they will form much more readily than 

 early in the year — remove them to a house where the night temperature is 

 65 degs. Fahr., placing them near the glass. Before doing so, however, thin 

 out the fruits, leaving six or seven only upon each plant. These will be quite 

 sufficient if the finest strawberries are to be obtained. The thinning required 

 will altogether depend upon the number of fruits " set." Supposing four or five 

 only to have formed, they would of course be left untouched. That the largest 

 and best-shaped fruits should be allowed to remain is obvious. 



It is of advantage if a house can be devoted solely to strawberry forcing, for 

 much labour in moving the plants to warmer houses is thereby saved. When 

 a sufficient number of fruits are "set" upon each plant, the house may then be 

 kept moist and warm to encourage the development of the fruits. When 

 the fruits are properly formed, they can really be "forced," for once well 

 "set" the fruits may with advantage be given plenty of heat and moisture. 

 Syringe them frequently several times during the course of the day. Close the 

 house early in the afternoon (it does not matter if the thermometer then 

 registers 80 to 85 degs.) and moisten the walls, floor, &c. Increase the 

 temperature from 65 to 70 degs. in a fortnight after bringing the plants into a 

 warm house. 



