1 88 THE FRUIT GARDEN 



space if done in the spring. We sow the seed in March or April, one sowing 

 in each month. In doing this we follow the same practice as with celery. 

 The seed germinates better and more regularly in slight warmth, but care 

 must afterwards be taken not to allow the seedlings to remain under these con- 

 ditions after having made one or two rough leaves. Then it is better to 

 harden them off in a cold frame. By the end of May or early in June the 

 seedlings should be pricked off into boxes, as is frequently done with celery 

 earlier in the spring. Keep them for a week or two under protection, and they 

 will be fit for placing outside. Towards the end of July the young plants are 

 planted out, about 6 inches apart each way, in light well-prepared soil upon an 

 eastern border, where only the morning sun reaches them. Attention to 

 watering follows as a matter of course from the seedling stage onwards until 

 the plants are well established in the autumn. Every day this should be 

 attended to. If an eastern border is not available, one facing north will be 

 better than one fully exposed ; or, failing that, such as may be afforded by the 

 partial shade of trees. 



During October the ground should be selected and duly prepared by 

 trenching and manuring. An open position, or one slightly shaded by fruit 

 trees, will answer for this ; at any rate, a little more shade than the ordinary 

 strawberries prefer will not do any harm. It is convenient to plant in beds 

 rather than in continuous rows equal distances from each other. Our method 

 is to plant four rows at 1 8 inches apart, then miss one row. This gives a 

 good space for working and picking, two rows being worked from either 

 side. We plant firmly, and always water the plants afterwards. With 

 the exception of using the hoe a few times no other work is necessary until 

 growth begins again in spring. Then the surface of the soil should be lightly 

 stirred and all weeds kept down. When the young plants show their first 

 flowers we pick these off, and continue to do so until the first week in July, by 

 which time the plants have gained their full vigour. For very late crops the 

 flowers are removed until nearly the end of July. These plants will begin to 

 fruit by the middle and end of August, when a daily gathering may easily be 

 had. This will continue well into October, frequently till the end of the 

 month if frosts are not too severe. The " runners " are picked off until the 

 time of fruiting. The second year the plants are allowed to fruit early, and 

 continue to yield a good supply until the next lot of seedling plants are again 

 in bearing. The fruits will ripen about the same time as Royal Sovereign. 

 The old plants are then destroyed ; the ground is at once prepared for some 

 other crop or for the next lot of seedling Alpines (we find them do well 

 upon the same ground year after year). A light mulch should be put upon 

 the seedling beds in May or June, and upon the old beds if necessary. This 

 can be done about the usual time. I prefer first to mulch with partially 

 decayed leaves and then with quite short litter, so as to afford both food for the 

 plants and shelter from the heat of the sun, as well as to protect the fruits from 

 harm. Water should be given freely whenever necessary, but manure water 

 is not essential. The fruits are gathered early in the morning into small 

 ornamental baskets in which they go direct to the table, chiefly for break- 



