194 THE FRUIT GARDEN 



culture, yet it is as true of the tomato as of any other fruit, that if the best results 

 as regards weight of crop, quality of fruit, &c., are to be had, an intimate knowledge 

 of its requirements is essential. The tdmato will succeed fairly well in any 

 glass structure, but if new houses are built they should be span-roofed, with the 

 ends facing north and south, and be in an open position where they will be 

 exposed to the sun all day. They may be lo feet wide, with a 2 feet wide 

 pathway in the middle, and the roof 8 feet high at the apex. They can be 

 built any desired length, but those 200 feet long are convenient. Plenty of 

 ventilation is necessary. 



When to Begin. — A convenient day on which to commence the cultiva- 

 tion of the tomato is on New Year's Day. First place two seeds in a 3-inch 

 pot, using loam and leaf-soil in equal proportions, passed through a ^-inch sieve.. 

 After planting, the seeds should be watered with tepid water, and the soil 

 covered with a piece of glass ; then place them on a shelf in a warm position 

 in a house whose temperature is, say, 65 degs. Two seeds are placed in the 

 pots in case only one grows (if both grow one should be thrown away). Ger-- 

 mination will take place in the course of a week, and before the young plants 

 reach it remove the piece of glass. Keep the seedlings sturdy and strong by 

 giving them a position near the roof. Towards the middle or end of January 

 the small pots will be filled with roots ; then the plants should be moved 

 into those of 5-inch diameter, using loam and leaf-soil as before, except that 

 now it should be passed through a i-inch sieve, with just a little bone dust.. 

 Place them deeply in the pots, using enough soil to make the pots only three- 

 parts full, reserving space for a top-dressing later. The plants must be returned 

 to a shelf near the glass in a warm house as before, and left there until they 

 have rooted freely into the new soil. Then they should be removed to a 

 cooler house or pit, and where it is possible to give more air. The young plants 

 should still be kept near the glass, the temperature being from 60 to 65 degs. ; 

 the top-dressing previously mentioned may now be applied. Towards the- 

 middle or end of February they will have become sturdy plants, and the question 

 must be decided whether they are to bear fruit in pots or in a border. For the 

 first early crop I should prefer pots. 



Final Potting. — The size of pot to be used for the final removal 

 should be 12 inches in diameter, and the soil should consist of three parts fibrous 

 loam with one part of fresh horse droppings, add a little bone dust, and mix all 

 well together. The pots should be carefully drained, for large quantities of' 

 water will pass through them ; they also should be clean. Place the plant 

 rather deeply in the pot in order to allow of top-dressing later, when new 

 roots will be produced from the stem. The house or pit in which the plants 

 are to bear fruit should be made ready, knd whether lean-to or span-roofed 

 the best results are obtained early in the year by training the plants to a 

 trellis near the glass roof Restrict each plant to a single stem ; this is effected 

 by cutting out every lateral growth. The stem of the plant need not be 

 more than 4 or 5 feet long, so that if the house is from 8 to 10 feet wide 

 it will accommodate two rows of plants each side, or four rows in a span-roofed 

 house ; the pots may be placed quite close together, thus leaving 12 inches. 



