220 THE FRUIT GARDEN 



The Border. — To avoid reiteration, I would refer readers to the chapter 

 on the peach under glass for information as to the formation of the border. Pre- 

 suming the old soil to have been cleared awray and the bottom of the border 

 covered by concrete (if the nature of the subsoil demands this), the pipes laid 

 dow^n and covered with rubble, all is ready to receive the soil. I ought 

 here to remark that the front wall of all fruit-houses should, if possible, be built 

 on arches, or iron girders placed on pillars, so that the inside and outside border 

 are connected. Commence with borders of limited size, instead, as was a 

 common practice years ago, of filling the whole border space when the vines are 

 planted. The first step to take in forming the new border is to cover the drainage 

 for a distance of 3 feet from the front wall inside the house, in the archways 

 under the wall, and for 18 inches outside the wall, with good firm turves, 

 placed grass side downwards. On the outside edge of these, a wall of turves 

 should be built as high as the border will be when completed, i.e. at least 2J feet 

 above the drainage and from 6 to 9 inches higher than the top of the arches in 

 the wall. When these turf walls are completed, a space of about 3 feet will be 

 left to fill up with soil in which the vines are to be planted. 



The Soil. — This should consist of turf cut from old pasture land, prefer- 

 ably from that resting on chalk, lime, or sandstone ; the turf should be cut 

 5 inches deep with the grass left on intact. I am aware that turf of this quality 

 is beyond the reach of many. I hasten to assure them that the vine is most 

 accommodating as regards the soil in which it will grow, but if the highest 

 success is to be attained the best possible loam must be provided. ' Turf cut 

 from the margins of public roads or roadside banks, if collected and stacked 

 together for three or four months, makes a good and cheap soil. Where the 

 land upon which the vinery is built consists of deep loam and is well drained, 

 if trenched and well manured, it will produce excellent grapes. Turves 

 should be cut up into large pieces 7 or 8 inches square, and as little of the loose 

 soil used as possible. 



To each cartload of turf should be added one cwt. of ;|-inch bones, two 

 barrow-loads of old broken bricks, mortar, and plaster rubble, one bushel of 

 quicklime, and a barrow-load of road scrapings. Mix all well together. I 

 ought here to impress upon the inexperienced the importance of having the soil 

 moist, but not so moist that it sticks to the hands. After the material has been 

 properly mixed and formed into a heap, means should be provided to protect it 

 from rain until required. All we have to do now as far as the soil is concerned 

 is to fill up the space between the turf walls, and so prepare the border for 

 planting the vines. The next important question to consider is — 



Planting. — I say important advisedly, because on the careful manner in 

 which this work is done depends much of the success or otherwise of the vine. 

 There are two methods : the one is practised in autumn and the other in 

 summer. I have succeeded equally well with both, but I think that for 

 amateurs the former answers best. 



Autumn Planting. — By this is meant planting when the vine is dormant ; 

 with summer planting the work is carried out when the vine is in leaf and full 

 growth. A good time for winter planting is from the middle of October 



