GEEEN-HOUSE PLA^'TS. 



11.5 



than those removed. By exercising sense and judg- 

 ment in the removal, as fai- as may be, of the oldest 

 branches and shoots, the Roses may thus be pruned 

 into a renewal of their youth annually, and by the 

 aid of such root-dressings as wUl he described in 

 our articles on Culture, wiU continue to bud and 

 blossom as only such Eoses can for so many 

 years, that they may be safely reckoned among the 

 permanent objects of beauty and interest in the 

 garden. 



The rirm Fixing of Trained Hoses 



Without fixity of tenure and security against dis- 

 turbance, the best-trained Roses soon become 

 wretched and pitiable examples of love's painstaking 

 and skilful labour lost. Even common standard 

 Roses are so often blown out of the perpendicular 

 by rough winds as to completely mar their form, 

 and excite our commiseration rather than admira- 

 tion. Stakes of wood soon rot, and besides have 

 seldom sufficient foothold to remain for any length 

 of time firmly fixed in the ground. The zigzag 

 action of the wind, greatly aided by the leverage of 

 the Rose-top, first loosens the stakes and then throws 

 them over. Iron stakes, with variously-formed bases, 

 bave been substituted for wood with good effect. (See 

 article on Plastisg.) Objection has been justly 

 taken to heavy iron bottoms for stakes, as they 

 speedily corrode in the ground ; and although it is 

 said that soils with a fair percentage of iron are 

 the most favourable for the development of high 

 colour in Roses, it is certain that the roots of Roses 

 metaphorically turn up their noses at the large doses 

 of iron rust generated by iron stakes. The best 

 cure for this is to dip the base of the stake into 

 hot pitch, and allow this to become thoroughly 

 hard and dry before putting it in the ground. 

 A similar coating, or one of tar varnish, is the best 

 dressing for the upper portion of the stakes, and 

 will last for years. F^^ires of several iron Rose- 

 stakes have already been given, and they may be 

 bad of any length. 



GEEEN-HOTJSB PLAIJTS. 



By WiiiiAM Hugh Gowbb. 



Bpacris. — Handsome free-flowering plants, ad- 

 mirably adapted for bonqnet-making, as well as the 

 general decoration of green-house or conservatory. 

 These plants bear the knife well, and consequently 

 recommend themselves to ladies who cut. their own 

 flowers and like long stems with them. 



£pacris are peculiar to Australia and New Zea- 



land. The species from the latter country are not 

 showy. They are geneiully found in elevated 

 positions, a knowledge of which should assist the 

 cultivator. 



The genus has always been popular with lovers of 

 plants, and therefore the hybridiser has paid con- 

 siderable attention to them, the result being the pro- 

 duction of numerous exn-emeiy beautiful varieties. 



The flowei-s of Epacris are tubular, waxy, more oi 

 less drooping, and spring from the bases of the 

 closely-set leaves, in such numbers as to form dense 

 racemes of bloom. There are two distinct sections 

 of Epacris, one being erect and bushy, the other 

 ha\'ing a somewhat lax or trailing habit of growth. 

 The latter produce longer flowers, and usually bloom 

 later in the season, and display their beauties to 

 the greatest advantage when trained upon a wire 

 trellis. 



The bushy kinds should be cut back hard after 

 blooming. The lax growers must only have an 

 inch or two of their shoots trimmed off. 



When Epacris are young, they should he potted 

 in good rough peat, with a liberal quantity of sharp 

 sand added ; but after they have attained size and 

 strength, the addition of a small quantity of light 

 loam will be found advantageous. The erect- 

 growing kinds mostly bloom in winter and early 

 spring. Soon after the blooming season is past, cut 

 the shoots down to an inch or two of the previous 

 year's wood. They should then be placed in a frame 

 or some position which will give them a closer 

 atmosphere than usual, giving them an occasional 

 sprinkling with the syringe or rose watering-can, 

 which will materially assist in the production of 

 young shoots. When the new growths are about an 

 inch long, re-pot the plants; and as soon as root- 

 action begins, give them more air. When the young 

 shoots have made some four or five inches of growth, 

 pinch out the points, and they will again form lateral 

 shoots, and thus produce more dense and compact 

 bushes. If the plants are to flower the following 

 winter, do not stop the shoots a second time (unless 

 the plants are very thin), as with one stopping they 

 will make long stout shoots, which wiU be clothed 

 with flowers the greater part of their length, and 

 be more effective than a greater quantity of smaller 

 ones. 



The plants having become well established in their 

 pots, remove them to the open air, standing them 

 upon a bed of ashes to keep worms from entering 

 the pots. Here they may remain until' autumn, 

 when it will be necessary to return them to their 

 winter quarters, which should be a cool and airy 

 position. 



The lax growers being, as before remarked, later 

 bloomers than the shrubby kinds, must not be 



