322 



CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING. 



stakes or other supports, to compensate them for the 

 withdrawal ol their niitural supports — vertical roots 

 — and their conversion into fibrous and horizontal 

 ones. 



It win he observed that much importance is 

 attached to the position and direction, as well as the 

 form and character of the roots, and this not without 

 the best of reasons. The best food and most favour- 

 able influences for the roots of Apple and other fruit- 

 trees are found within an average of between twelve 

 and twenty-four inches of the surface of the ground. 

 By so modifying the roots of fruit-trees as to force 

 them to continue in this surface tilth, we shall give 

 good securitj" for their health, strength, and fertility, 

 and hence, largely, the permanent and lasting benefit 

 of root-pruning. 



Should, however, the roots regain a vertical 

 position, and the tops respond to them by vigorous 

 growth and less fruit, nothing can be simpler than 

 to uncover, examine, and if needful prune the roots 

 afresh. This may be done all at once, or at twice; or 

 even at three times. The root-pruning of established 

 Apple or other fruit-trees at two operations is safest 

 for amateurs. But the roots should be approached 

 from east and west, and not from north and south. 

 Approaching to the centre of the bole as here directed, 

 about half the roots would probably be found on 

 either side of the bole. Approach it from north and 

 south, probably three-fourths, perhaps nine-tenths, of 

 the roots would be found on the south side of the 

 bole. 



As to the best season to root-prune, from the end of 

 October to the end of the year is the best time, the 

 whole of November being the most favoirrable of all. 

 Experienced pomologists, however, have root-pruned 

 «ven at midsummer with positive advantage. Eoot- 

 prunings, however, during the full growth of top, 

 ought to be done tentatively, and are better left 

 to those endowed with .special skUl and ripe 

 experience. Guided by these, root-pruning might 

 be performed at almost any season, excepting that 

 when the sap is in fuU motion in the spring, and 

 before the buds have burst into leafage. Roots 

 pruned at that special season are prone to bleed 

 profusely, and so impoverish the trees of vital force. 

 The roots are also slow to heal, or to emit fresh roots. 

 Tinder" such conditions. Practically, and excepting 

 for experts, root-pruning had better be hmited to the 

 periods included between the last week of October 

 and the first of January. 



As to the method of root-pruning, it should be 

 performed with as much or more painstaking care 

 than that of the tops of trees. 



The matter is simple enough in the case of trans- 

 planted trees. Transplantation itself, as already 

 indicated, necessitates a certain amount of root- 



pruning. This is mostly supplemented by the 

 removal of all injured or misplaced roots by the 

 knife. If the roots still need reduction, or trans- 

 forming into smaller and more fibrous ones, the 

 stronger ones should be cut through. But in the 

 case of trees already planted, uncovering should 

 precede pruning, though the mere fact of un- 

 covering and detaching fixed roots from the soil, 

 even were aU the roots left intact, which is impos- 

 sible, is tantamount to root-pruning. 



In addition to this, however, the direct cutting back 

 of strong roots, or reduction of superfluous ones, may 

 be required. A keen- 

 edged knife should be 

 used, and the cuts should 

 be made at a short acute 

 angle from the bottom 

 of the roots upwards. 

 If one or more small 

 fibres appear on the 

 main root, it is wise, 

 where practicable, to cut 

 back to this. Clean cuts, 

 and the roots returned 

 to earth as quickly as 

 possible, are among the 

 surest aids to success in 

 the root-pruning of the 

 Apple or other trees. If 

 the trees are pruned 

 tentatively — one-half or 

 a, third at a time — the 

 pruning may be renewed 

 every year till finished 

 — unless, however, the 

 character of the top 

 growth has been so 

 checked and modified as 

 to prove that the main 

 roots have been suffi- 

 ciently pruned. In that 

 case the wise saw of 

 letting well alone is most 



appropriate, for root-pruning is not desirable in 

 itself, only as a means to an end; and the end- 

 moderate growth and fertility — being already reached, 

 there is no rational motive for pushing the root- 

 pruning further. Notes should, however, be made 

 of these partially root-pruned trees, and should they 

 again fall into sterile ways, the process may be 

 renewed at the point where it was left on the former 

 occasion. 



The permanent efiects of root-pruning are not 

 only seen in less top growth and more fruit, but it 

 also reduces top-pruning to the lowest limits. This 

 will be readily understood. 



Fig. 6.— Cordon planted and 

 left full leneth, showing 

 fruit-buds plumped up in 

 the autumn. 



