Handling Root Grafts. 83 
interlocks, as shown in the engraving. The object of this is 
to make more points of contact for the inner barks of root and 
scion, and at the same time to interlock the two more firmly. 
In putting the two together, if the stock is slightly larger than 
the scion, be sure to put the scion so that the inner bark contact 
is made, and this will bring the scion a little to one side of the 
center. Bind with the wax band, and paint with wax as in the 
case of the former graft. 
In large nursery practise expert grafters have come of late 
years to make this root graft without wax, merely tying in the 
graft. For amateur work at home it is much safer to use the 
wax. 
Grafting in the root, where the root is much larger than the 
scion, may be done without splitting the root by cutting or saw- 
ing out a triangular piece on the side of the root, cutting the 
scion to fit and trusting to a strong band to hold it in place. 
This graft is illustrated in the chapter on propagating the grape. 
It also works well with root grafting the walnut, and is used by 
some in ordinary top grafting on other trees. 
Planting Seedlings or Root Grafts in Nursery Row. 
Planting out Root Grafts——This root grafting can be done in 
the winter before it is time to plant out, and the grafts can be 
made a few at a time, as convenient. The grafts, then, as fast 
as prepared, should be bedded in moist sand in the cellar, and 
will make their contact firm, and even start to growing a little. 
In planting out in the nursery rows be sure the earth is firmed 
well around the root, otherwise many will be lost. The plant 
can be put in and the earth closed with a dibble, as seen in the 
sketch. Plant ten or twelve inches apart in the rows. Keep 
the weeds down and the soil well cultivated and loose on the 
surface, and the first season’s growth will give a tree fit for 
planting out in orchard in the coming winter. For irrigation 
the same rules will apply as given for the growth of seedlings 
for budding. 
