Tools for Pruning. 131 
treated when cut, there will be no decay, and the wound will 
soon be wholly obliterated. 
In amputating large branches, an undercut with the saw 
should be made first so that the bark shall not be torn as the 
branch falls. Another good way is to saw off first at a distance 
from the final cut and then saw off smoothly at the right place 
when the weight is removed. 
Trees often become “hide-bound,” as it is called. Espe- 
cially in this dry climate the bark gets dry and tough, therefore 
can not expand in proportion to the growth of the tree, or supply 
the amount of sap necessary for the demand. Slitting such trees 
here and there up and down the trunk and main limbs with a 
sharp knife seems to have good effect, for often in three months 
the cut opens half an inch, and a fine, clear bark, with an increase 
of growth, results. On old trees, too, there is often a growth of 
moss and lichens which should be removed. This can be done 
by scraping off the rough, loose bark and spraying with an alka- 
line wash, such as will be described in the chapter on injurious 
insects. This will remove the objectionable growth, give the 
trees a clean, bright bark, and, probably, contribute to their vigor 
as well as to their appearance. 
PRUNING TOOLS. 
There is some difference of opinion as to the comparative 
value of the pruning knife and the pruning shears. The knife, 
if sharp, and well used, makes a smooth cut, with no bruising of 
the bark, and such a wound heals over perfectly. The shears, 
if of good pattern and sharp, also make a very good cut, but 
there is always some little injury to the bark on the side oppo- 
site to the entry of the blade. On small cuts, say three-quarters 
of an inch or less, if the blade is kept very sharp, the resistance 
does not make sufficient injury to the bark to seriously consider, 
and the speed with which the shears can be used renders them 
the main reliance for all the smaller pruning. Nearly all styles 
of hand shears are used in this State. 
There are, also, two-hand shears, which are very powerful, 
and enable one to work very quickly. When kept well sharp- 
ened they are very effective tools. There are a number of styles 
in use, both home-made and imported. 
Still another arrangement of shears is mounted on a pole, 
the cutting blade being operated by a cord, and having a spring 
to throw the blade back. The pole is jointed, so that one or 
more lengths can be used. With this device one can stand on 
the ground and shorten in the top shoots of a tree very handily. 
For larger cuts than can be made with the pruning knife or 
one-hand shears, there are pruning saws of different styles, of 
