132 California Pruning Saws. 
which the two shown in the engravings are of California design 
and construction, being made by the Pacific Saw Company, of 
San Francisco. The frame is made of the best spring steel, con- 
structed somewhat on the principle of a butcher’s saw, with the 
exception of the saw blade being much narrower; and instead of 
being stationary, it revolves so that the pruner is enabled to 
California Pruning Saw—Steel Back. 
adjust the blade to cut at any angle, as is often necessary to do 
when cutting where limbs grow close together, and where it 
would be impossible to use an ordinary saw of a wider blade. 
The blade is only one-fourth to one-half inch wide, and there- 
fore not liable to get pinched in the cut. Strength is imparted 
by a tension screw under the handle. which tightens the blade. 
The blade is easily detached by slackening the tension screw, 
and lifting the blade out of the slot in the clutches at each end. 
The blade can be thus reversed and made to cut with a push or 
a pull, as may be desired. 
California Curved Pattern Pruning Saw. 
The foregoing saw is commonly called the Hatch pattern. 
Another similar to it, except that it is heavier and has a handle 
like that of a butcher’s saw, is known as the Jessup pattern. 
Another popular saw is the curved pruning saw, with twelve and 
fourteen-inch blades. As the engraving shows, the saw cuts 
with a pull. 
CUTTING TO A BUD. 
Whatever may be used to make the cut, it is important to 
sever the twig or shoot at that distance from a wood bud which 
gives that bud the best chance to grow well, and at the same 
time facilitates the healing and complete obliteration of the scar. 
Cutting too far from the bud leaves a stub which dies back, and 
is likely to carry decay into the pith and thence down into the 
limb. Cutting too close to the bud or carrying the slope down 
